ISUZU rebuild standstill

by **KIWIINGENUITY** » Mon Nov 02, 2009 6:29 pm

I have came to a halt with the top end rebuild of my 4jg2 3.1 isuzu bighorn. This is because I do not want to put the head on until I fix a few things.

1st BIG problem
..I managed to snap an injector pipe of flush in the fuel pump... "easyouts" dont seem to get it out.. any ideas?? needs taken out pronto !!!!! help :cry:

2nd Opinion needed
..Im not sure if I need to replace the head bolts or not, it overheated and crackd the head beyond repair, geeves thinks that the bolts have probably streched and I wouldnt like to take the chance and so far agree with him, But my machanic m8 said dont bother, he never has, and the workshop manuals just says to clean them... so 2nd opinions needed . thanks :?:

3rd senario
.. a couple of very helpful guys on the forum have opened my eyes and told me I need to replace my timing belt , idlers , tensioners and water pump ( and there wright) . Now i need to no thee cheapest place to get these parts and any tricks on easy assembly or how hard it is , advise etc .. :idea:

Thanks everyone !!

btw i need a alternator for a 4jb1 2.8 isuzu mu

and finally i have 1988 isuzu bighorn c223 parts for sale !!

by **jezza** » Mon Nov 02, 2009 6:39 pm

Any pictures of the injector pump where its broken?
For an older engine it is best practice to replace the head bolts, but you don't have to. Just measure the thread and check that it hasn't stretched, normally your able to use head bolts twice before they are throw away.

by **geeves** » Tue Nov 03, 2009 6:27 am

bnt is normaly pretty good fotr parts

by **Demonic** » Tue Nov 03, 2009 8:04 am

I got a kit with oil seals, idler, tenioner, and belt for about $300 from BNT., check club isuzu parts listing for the kit, its a Dayco one.

by **mulover** » Tue Nov 03, 2009 1:00 pm

Not sure about the injector pump, never touched one, dont really wanna. all i could say is be very careful!!

If the head bolts are not that expensive and within your already stretched budget i would replace tehm, but as the other guys said, if the threads ok and not stretched then they may be ok.

BNT or repco, or appco if you have one, i had a mate that worked at appco and hooked me up, and my work had an account at repco where i got top discount, plus i have a green card for repco!!
Tricks - take the radiator out, its a must, be sure to lock the pullys in place - there is threaded holes behind each pully and a corresponding hole to lock them with bolts, and just TAKE YOUR TIME!!!!

by **KIWIINGENUITY** » Tue Nov 03, 2009 2:04 pm

yip, will measure the head bolts and see if they have streched, Also will try get pics up of the pump in the w.e (weekend)
thanks.

haha take my time ?? ill try .. no promisses.

by **eastcoaster91** » Thu Nov 05, 2009 5:37 am

i would say replace the head blots my dad works of vehicles for a living and always replaces them cause of threads stretching then just torque them to factory specs

by **KIWIINGENUITY** » Thu Nov 05, 2009 10:59 am

yup, next time im in town i will price them up . thanks

by **Demonic** » Thu Nov 05, 2009 12:52 pm

Simple way to check (not the best) is measure the bolt from under the head/cap to the end of the thread, compare with the manual, also use a stright edge along the bolt and see how they look, but yeah, there not to expensive.

viewtopic.php?f=23&t=281 , show the pullys locked if you have not seen it yet.

by **KIWIINGENUITY** » Thu Nov 05, 2009 2:10 pm

thanks for the pic. I just read that post and you mention replacing a tensioner as well. can you tell me were this is on that picture, did everything go good when you did it ? is there anything you would of done different ?
cheers demonic

btw what tyres did you end up getting ? haha

by **Demonic** » Thu Nov 05, 2009 2:33 pm

KIWIINGENUITY wrote:btw what tyres did you end up getting ? haha

Not bought a new set yet, still on my todo list and muds were more important. so I bought Geeves 32s.

Done, Idler, tension, and locking bolts, TBH it was the easyesy job ive done on my MU so far, do the waterpump at the same time, and remove the radiator.

by **KIWIINGENUITY** » Thu Nov 05, 2009 5:59 pm

thanks . thats a very helpful photo. now i can go straight to it , no pissing round. this is what i expected but its good to be re-asured. radiators already out. cheers demonic.

by **Demonic** » Thu Nov 05, 2009 8:13 pm

Here is one if the tensioner arm.

Image1.jpg

I have a few more that will only make sence once you start the job.

by **KIWIINGENUITY** » Fri Nov 06, 2009 4:52 am

ok thanks . ill be keeeping progress updated when i start the job.

by **justinw** » Fri Nov 06, 2009 9:43 am

Head bolts on a 3.1 are one shot items. To get the correct head hold down force you have to use new bolts. I assume you've got the page out of the manual that says how to tighten them, ie torque to x Nm then turn 60 degrees.

by **muzila** » Fri Nov 06, 2009 4:42 pm

if you turned 60 degrees after tighting the bolt wouldn't you be facing the wrong way??

by **Demonic** » Fri Nov 06, 2009 7:21 pm

by **wbski007** » Fri Nov 06, 2009 11:34 pm

I got a mential picture of someone doing that, torqueing it down and then turning 60 degrees, and saying now what?

by **KIWIINGENUITY** » Sat Nov 07, 2009 11:01 am

im lost. why would you yurn after you have tightened it down ? arnt you finshed once you have it tight ?

by **jezza** » Sat Nov 07, 2009 11:08 am

Most head bolts are torqued to a certain spec then angle torqued up even more, Daf heads are torqued to 240ft-pd then 90degrees and 90degrees again which is quite tight

Share On:

Share On:

Share On:

Share On:

Share On:

Share On:

Share On:

Share On:

Share On:

Share On:

Share On:

Share On:

Share On:

Share On:

Share On:

Share On:

Share On:

Share On:

Share On:

Share On:

Who is online