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Rear main replacement

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Rear main replacement

Postby manwithav8 » Sun Apr 28, 2013 7:11 am

Looking through the site there is only a couple of threads that discuss rear main replacement. What I'd like to know is has anyone successfully replaced the seal without using the listed spec tool?
Split trans to do clutch yesterday and a very slight weep from the main is evident. Best to do now while in there than have it completely fail and ruin the new clutch.

The plan was to drill and screw blunt self tappers to pull the old seal but fitting is where im a little concerned. Can I get away with gently tapping the seal over the rear of the crank until crank protrusion is 12.5mm or is this definately a "press" fit not a smack on fit?

Any info would be handy thanks.
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Re: Rear main replacement

Postby isuzurob » Sun Apr 28, 2013 7:17 am

aftermarket seal you can tap in, one of mine was worse after i did it though, press on with the special tool is the genuine seal as it has a speedy sleeve as part of the seal and is very easy to damage, you will be fine with how you said you are going to do it
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Re: Rear main replacement

Postby manwithav8 » Sun Apr 28, 2013 10:11 am

isuzurob wrote:aftermarket seal you can tap in, one of mine was worse after i did it though, press on with the special tool is the genuine seal as it has a speedy sleeve as part of the seal and is very easy to damage, you will be fine with how you said you are going to do it


You mean it leaked worse after replacing the seal? Not a good result and a pain for you having to pull the box again.

Ok so seal from repco should just tap in as it is not likely to come with a speedy sleeve?
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Re: Rear main replacement

Postby isuzurob » Sun Apr 28, 2013 3:50 pm

yea it did, na left it as knew the gearbox would be out for another clutch within the month, all the aftermarket ones i have had were just tap in seals
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Re: Rear main replacement

Postby manwithav8 » Sun Apr 28, 2013 4:43 pm

Bit stink though that that happened. PLan too pull the engine for rebuild end of the year anyway so if its just really to see me through. Wasn't leaking that bad in the first place, more of a weep but worth doing for peace of mind for the rest of the year
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Re: Rear main replacement

Postby geeves » Sun Apr 28, 2013 5:19 pm

have you tried magic liquid. The stuff you add to your oil to soften and rejuvinate seals. Its not a long term fix but 5 or 10 bucks a bottle v engine out. It stopped my gearbox front seal leaking several years ago and it hasnt leaked again. Several brands
Sanding your knuckles before starting work can help. That way you cant skin them
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Re: Rear main replacement

Postby manwithav8 » Sun Apr 28, 2013 5:33 pm

Looked at some today while I was buying degreaser to clean the gearbox. Gearbox already out as I am doing the clutch. Last thing I want is oil contaminating the new component sor for a mear $45 I think replacing the seal is probably the better road travelled.

HAd I not be doing the clutch already it would surely be a different story though geeves
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Re: Rear main replacement

Postby isuzurob » Sun Apr 28, 2013 6:28 pm

up to you what you do, takes alot of oil to get on the clutch plate, my one i put a v in the engine backing plate so the oil could run out on the ground and not into the bell housing as a saftey gaurd, for 45 dollars its worth doing though
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Re: Rear main replacement

Postby geeves » Sun Apr 28, 2013 7:04 pm

Ive got a 2mm hole in my bellhousing about 60mm back from the front. There was a little oil coming out which I had thought was rear main till I had a closer look and found it was not full of carbon. Its a good idea to do this seal with every clutch Also a good idea to do the front seal on the gearbox.
If there is a notch on the crankshaft leaving the seal half a mm proud so it runs on a new spot on the crankshaft sometimes works
Sanding your knuckles before starting work can help. That way you cant skin them
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Re: Rear main replacement

Postby flywire » Fri Feb 27, 2015 10:41 pm

What is the seal number for the Nov 92 Rodeo Petrol with manual transmission?
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