Yes another intercooler question

[manwithav8]

Just checked out that thread. I have a standard 2.8 with waste gate still fitted so his drop pipe won't work for me will it due to the oil filter housing? Will the flange he is selling work with the wastegate still fitted or is it only for the divorced wastegate set up?

I am thinking this because I have decided to get the exhaust shop to fit the new exhaust to save me the time and hassel but it will be rather costly if i get them to make up the flange.

Recommendations please.

1. Buy flange, have 3" set up from turbo with wastegate fitted
2. Buy flange, have 3" set up from turbo with divorced wastegate
3. Source and change oil filter housing to 3.1 and buy complete drop pipe.

Depending on how the flange is set up option 1 looks to be easier however, if the flange is set up for divorced wastegate then option 2 is the better of the 3. I really don't want to go down the road of sourcing and fitting new filter housing if I can get around it.

[Captcol]

currently you have a non divorced wastegate as the exhaust and the wastegate from the turbo dump into the same pipe. Even the 3" ones being sold are not divorced, to be divorced you would need seperate pipes for the wastegate and turbo exhuast, I think they can be connected further down but race engines run the wastegate to air and not back into the exhaust. At least I think that is right. Either way getting the flange would be the easiest starting point

[98Rodeo]

the 2.8 on the rodeo already has the downward facing filter, Mine does, and all the others I have seen do anyway, does yours? If you know anyone with a 3.1 MU it might be worth seeing if it the same filter housing and cooler, it looks as though the dump should fit thru there though

[manwithav8]

the 2.8 on the rodeo already has the downward facing filter, Mine does, and all the others I have seen do anyway, does yours? If you know anyone with a 3.1 MU it might be worth seeing if it the same filter housing and cooler, it looks as though the dump should fit thru there though

Yes it is a downward facing filter, does that mean the dump will work?

[Cassidaddy]

currently you have a non divorced wastegate as the exhaust and the wastegate from the turbo dump into the same pipe. Even the 3" ones being sold are not divorced, to be divorced you would need seperate pipes for the wastegate and turbo exhuast, I think they can be connected further down but race engines run the wastegate to air and not back into the exhaust. At least I think that is right. Either way getting the flange would be the easiest starting point

by divorced wastegate do you mean external? as opposed to the standard internal wastegate?
Ive herd good things about siamese downpipes, may be worth having a look into making one of them

[manwithav8]

I know this is getting a little off topic to the thread header but keeping it all together.

I have had a look at my injector pump hoping to find where to adjust the fuel. Problem is, I cannot find the removable part everyone is talking about let alone the green cap.

Mine has a solid bolt in place of what everyone else claims to have a 13mm lock nut and a slotted adjuster screw. Can I adjust my pump or is it set from factory to never be tampered with?

[98Rodeo]

this one, its a lovely cap that takes pliers and swearing and a big screwdriver to mangle it off

[electrifying]

I second that.
Took me a while to get it off (like an hour) because it was very difficult to see.
There is a fine metal wire that holds the cap to the injector pump, you will need to wiggle the cap until it comes loose a bit, then cut the thin metal wire loop/tag/anti-tamper thing off with some small cutters.
The whole cap will then pull off & the adjustment is underneath.
clockwise = more fuel, anticlockwise = less fuel.
You will also need to adjust the idol control, as it will idol higher with more fuel going through.

[manwithav8]

I second that.
Took me a while to get it off (like an hour) because it was very difficult to see.
There is a fine metal wire that holds the cap to the injector pump, you will need to wiggle the cap until it comes loose a bit, then cut the thin metal wire loop/tag/anti-tamper thing off with some small cutters.
The whole cap will then pull off & the adjustment is underneath.
clockwise = more fuel, anticlockwise = less fuel.
You will also need to adjust the idol control, as it will idol higher with more fuel going through.

Thanks mate, how is the idle control adjusted?

[4x4SWANNY]

I just back off the stopper for the accelerater cable.
That seemed to slow the idle down..

[manwithav8]

Primo, I'll have this thread for reference when I finally get off my rear end and do some work on the rodeo.

[98Rodeo]

I didnt have to adjust my idle, mine was a bit low with the a/c on (about 500 rpm) now its at a lovely 750 pretty much all the time

[manwithav8]

I didnt have to adjust my idle, mine was a bit low with the a/c on (about 500 rpm) now its at a lovely 750 pretty much all the time

aaahhh yes a/c. Um, shouldn't a 2000 LT rodeo have a/c? I am led to believe it should by the a/c label for the a/c button. HOWEVER, the a/c button is not there, look inside the engine bay and what do you know, no a/c compressor.

I would say it has been removed in the past but was not informed by the seller of this. (bought unseen, I know, big risk but was a good deal I had to take quickly)

It looks as though the entire system has been removed too, not just the compressor and a/c button but all the lines, TX valve etc etc. One of the main reasons I went for this model was for a/c damn it lol

[98Rodeo]

i think it was an optional, but if the buttons there that makes it a bit strange!

[manwithav8]

i think it was an optional, but if the buttons there that makes it a bit strange!

Thats just it though. The button isn't there, just a hole where the button should be. The hole is labelled a/c

[4x4SWANNY]

Spooky.... The sign said After/Conditioning.

[manwithav8]

Spooky.... The sign said After/Conditioning.

Um huh? lol

[4x4SWANNY]

dont worry just a play on words.... Was silly..