My annoying 4JB1

[ONO2HI]

Ive had issues with leaks for a while now, this time last year i replaced the rear main, then 6months ago i added a engine breather kit as my engine was spitting a lot of oil after i turned it off, now iv got a leaking rear main again
So im going to drop the box off again this week sometime, also both sumps and reseal the lot,
Problem i have is im sick of putting plasters on problems and dont want to work on it for awhile,

Im now looking at rebuilding the engine, any one agree on rebuild, what about the engines on trademe?
Also i have a slight vacume if i put my finger over the dipstick tube, i would say thats not good but is that normal??

I need to sort the truck out asap, any help appreciated

[geeves]

If you have a slight vacuum at the dipstick hole theres not much wrong with the engine.
To confirm this try again with the line to the breather kit blocked off. A small amount of crankcase pressure is normal and these no way to form a vacuum due to the way diesels work. If theres not big clouds of smoke your engine is good.
It also doesnt explain the leaky rear main. Are you sure its from the engine. You have the same oil in the gearbox and once its dribbled through the bell housing picking up clutch debris its not easy to tell where it came from by its look. There have been a few gearbox front seal leaks over the years. A good bottle of engine antileak in my gearbox fixed mine. I dont like these liquid leak fixers but compared to removing a gearbox the 10 bucks or so is worth a crack. Also what oil are you useing. A lot of the synthetic oils will leak as they clean the muck out of the engine. I used Dello for a while but changed to Valvolene due to leaks and they all went away.
If it does prove to the rear main did you use a genuine or aftermarket seal? Theres been a few cases of aftermarket seals not working but factory ones in there place working perfectly.
Dont know about any current engines on trademe. If second hand you take your chances. If recon they are likely to be either ring jobs or full rebuilds. I would expect documentation. If new they are chinese most likely but dont let that put you off. They build this engine under licence

[ONO2HI]

I use shell helix diesel oil, trhe engines i was refering to are $2999 rebuilt, i got a quote today for 2k for a full rebuild, ill drop the box any way to determine the leak, my gbox is easy to drop as i had made a new crossmember, and theres not much there anymore,

On a side note, i had a mate whos a mechanic replace my oil cooler hoses before he left for aussie, now they are leaking like crazy since i put new long life coolent!!
Question is how the hell do you get them out??

[GreenRodeo]

I had a similar leak, noticed it after a service.

Told the mechanic and he did a bit of asking around other dealerships.

He has since been using an additive in the oil to make the seal more supple.

No more leaks!

[geeves]

Bet he didnt replace all the hoses. You have to take the oil filter off to get to the oil filter end. The other ends are behind the engine and theres 2 ways of doing these. If your like my neighbour whos a skinny Malaysian mechanic who works at a Ford dealership you can squeaze your hand round the back of the engine and release he spring clips and get the hoses on and off. Rubber grease helps get them back on. I couldnt even touch the end of the hose.
The other way is to undo a 10mm bolt in the back of the head and undo the hoses from the T pieces that connect them to the heater hoses. Then lift the whole assembly out and rebuild on the bench. If your having hose problems replace all your hoses or you will have a full burst at a most inconvenient time. A blown hose can cook the engine in minutes. My bighorn has only been towed home twice in 12 years once was due to a blown hose. All the good books say replace all hoses every 6 years so yours are 3 times the use by date

[rhorner]

these engines seem to leak very easily if you over fill with oil

[geeves]

9 out of 10 leak if full to the full line but not just below this. Dont know why this is but its good practice to never ever fill right to this line. Anything over minimum is ok

[ONO2HI]

I pulled my g/box out today and sump, the leak is not too bad and, its it ok for rear main to seep a tad at the bottom? should i replace or not? its only done 20000km since i did it. Iv never been a additive guy, but i think i have nothing to lose, so once she is going again, ill run a oil additive,
What ones do you guys use?

[geeves]

I think I used the Nulon one last time but wyns,stp,lucus and several more are all good

[mulover]

If its seeping, I'd replace it since your in there, I'm a big fan of replacing seals and beraings if I've got something apart, even if they look fine.

[4JB1T]

My old 4JB1-TD pressuried something wicked. Would shove approx 1ltr of oil out the tappet cover breather when engine was turned off. I tried everything to cure it & like you i purchased a Engine Breather Kit aswell, but it didnt cure the problem.

Removed the egine & took the head off, #3 Rings were shot. Got a good 2nd hand engine (375,000km) sitting in paddock for 20quid, goes like a rocket. Have old engine under the bench, probably replace rings at some stage.

[mulover]

If your old engine is still running ok and its just the rings, then it will be very cheap to re-build.