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Go fast bits

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Go fast bits

Postby manwithav8 » Sun Nov 11, 2012 5:41 am

Bought some go fast bits yesterday. Popped down to wreckers and picked up a bighorn intercooler and bonnet scoop. Question hereis when you cut the hole in your bonnet, do you make it only the size of the intercooler or bigger to accomodate the fact the scoop is a fair bit bigger? Keep having images of the scoop getting torn off as the hole in the bonnet is only half the size.

Boost tap and EGT gauge off trademe on their way.

Had to get an exh manifold as mine is cracked in half and the gasket is shot. Will trace the dump pipe flange while changing out the manifold and try my hand with the plasma and file. I have emailed brokenmu with no reply so am guessing he is off the radar. If I can get a good deal through work on lazer cut flanges I might be able to take over with the flanges and dump pipes at nz rates. Watch this space.

The manifold I got has a hole on the top which works perfectly as I can mount the sensor for my EGT into the blanking plate I will make. My old manifold doesn't have this hole. Can anyone tell me what it is actually for?

Looks like the next week after work ill be busy :-)
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Re: Go fast bits

Postby isuzurob » Sun Nov 11, 2012 7:42 am

the hole is normally the size of the scoop normally, the scoop is so big to get it in the middle of the bonnet as the intercooler is offset, make sure your boost tap doesnt spike ive had cheap one that were real bad have a gfb now and is great, the hole in the manifold is for egr system your new manifold will be off a mu or bighorn as rodeos didnt run egr systems as they are nz new
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Re: Go fast bits

Postby manwithav8 » Sun Nov 11, 2012 11:57 am

isuzurob wrote:the hole is normally the size of the scoop normally, the scoop is so big to get it in the middle of the bonnet as the intercooler is offset, make sure your boost tap doesnt spike ive had cheap one that were real bad have a gfb now and is great, the hole in the manifold is for egr system your new manifold will be off a mu or bighorn as rodeos didnt run egr systems as they are nz new


OK will cut the hole the size of the scoop.

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-par ... 825858.htm This is the controller I have an guessing due to the great price it will spike. I'm not going to adjust the boost until I have EGT fitted but guess I can only adjust to the spike. ie if it spikes at 15psi but runs 13 normally, that the best I can do for now. Look at a better controller later. Does that sound like a safe bet?

That sounds about right for the EGR guff, first thing was to remove it but it wasn't there lol. Therefore ideal for mounting EGT sensor?
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Re: Go fast bits

Postby turnturn » Sun Nov 11, 2012 5:17 pm

I would only cut the hole in the bonnet to match the size of the Intercooler not the scoop. You want all air collected by the scoop to go through the Intercooler and not around it. It will take the path of least resistance.
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Re: Go fast bits

Postby isuzurob » Sun Nov 11, 2012 5:53 pm

yes thats were my egt gauge is runs at 700 i have a modified pump and custom turbo though, mine runs 8psi standard have it set at 10.5 psi at the moment, cutting the hole depends if you got all the deflector plates and rubber seals as above, boost never kills a diesel fuel does (or heat) i run mine for 2 1/2 years with no wastegate and killed the motor on a club run in deep mud towing trucks water temp got to hot
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Re: Go fast bits

Postby Roderunner » Mon Nov 12, 2012 11:08 am

I fitted an egt gauge using the untapped egr boss on the manifold between cylinders 3&4 , I had to countersink the hole though to get the proper probe depth in the manifold. I also made up a divider plate for the manifold centre outlet to direct gas flow out to the turbo. The highest egt reading so far has been 1250 F while driving up a long steep hill, thats about as hot as I will let it get. Turning up the boost past the stock 12 psi by disconnecting the wastegate pipe gave lower egts while running more boost, which tops out at 19 psi. I could add more fuel with the higher boost as there is no smoke but egt's will rise above my 1250F limit.
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Re: Go fast bits

Postby isuzurob » Mon Nov 12, 2012 11:14 am

thats only 670 degrees which is ok mates 3.1 mu runs at 960 in the manifold he works for diesel turbo shop, mine hits 700 everyday
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Re: Go fast bits

Postby geeves » Mon Nov 12, 2012 3:58 pm

please can everyone put a C or F after there temp. Some people are doing this but we have to guess on the others. If you want to show off you can put a K but you need to convert the number first.
Sanding your knuckles before starting work can help. That way you cant skin them
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Re: Go fast bits

Postby manwithav8 » Mon Nov 12, 2012 4:19 pm

I agree geeves.

I know it's not ideal but am I going to run into any problems by fitting the intercooler without the bonnet scoop? I'd rather do both at the same time but just have the time. Need the intercooler fitted to get scoop in the right place so not going to do scoop first.

Probably looking at a week of running the intercooler without the scoop and will be driving from Trentham to Palmerston north and back.
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Re: Go fast bits

Postby geeves » Mon Nov 12, 2012 5:33 pm

An intercooler without an airflow is best described as a pipe. It will add resistance to the air intake and may increase the intake temperature but I doubt anyone will be able to measure the loss of performance because of it
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Re: Go fast bits

Postby manwithav8 » Tue Nov 13, 2012 3:37 am

geeves wrote:An intercooler without an airflow is best described as a pipe. It will add resistance to the air intake and may increase the intake temperature but I doubt anyone will be able to measure the loss of performance because of it



My thoughts exactly. The bigger surface area of the intercooler may allow the inlet charge to become slightly more heated than the stock intake but I will soon see if it has an effect on performance.
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Re: Go fast bits

Postby isuzurob » Tue Nov 13, 2012 7:39 am

my temps are all metric degrees, as dont live in stone age, you could also get an intercooler and bonnet off a 4jh1-t in the tf rodeos then you dont have to cut your bonnet
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Re: Go fast bits

Postby Roderunner » Tue Nov 13, 2012 9:26 am

There is no consensus on safe egt levels, as each engine model has it's own design characteristics, higher egt's generally lead to shorter engine life and more power, the 1250F (676C) figure is considered to be about the safe limit for an engine that has to last a few years (daily driver vehicles) by many diesel engine tuners/builders, but as always there are guys who run much higher exhaust gas temps at a higher risk of engine damage. The turbo also has a safe temp limit, IHI rates their rhf series turbo's at 950C (1742F) turbine inlet gas temp, so "safe" egt figures really depend on application and expected engine life.
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Re: Go fast bits

Postby manwithav8 » Wed Nov 21, 2012 4:11 am

So yesterday after work, (1630) I thought it was time to start work on the rodeo. I decided to down tools at 0300 as I have a normal days work to get through today.

Few problems I ran into that might need some information/discussion. The replacement manifold I got off trademe was a good one. Made the blanking plate for the EGR that my rodeo doesn't have, cut a tappered thread for my EGT gauge probe. New gasket on, bolted manifold to head and then what do you know, the bl00dy turbo flange on the manifold is somewhat bigger than the flange on my turbo and it wasn't going to mount.
My guess here is that the manifold is off a 4jg2 not a 4jb1. I was not aware there was the difference in mounting. So the old manifold that is cracked 3/4 has to go back on. Drilled cut threads for the blanking plate as there was none what so ever and this is how my EGT probe is fitted. After a little swearing the manifold is bolted up with a new gasket.

Now this is where my judgement was a little off. Rotating the turbo should be a fairly straight forward job. NO, it was not. From what I have read, the turbo on the 4jg2 is the problem child when it comes to rotating the compressor housing, not the turbo on the 4jb1. For reference I have the RHF5 of which II'm hoping to hybrid with a VF10. If this will not work someone speak now PLEASE!!!!!!

Get the compressor housing off BAAM, only 2 holes line up. So to cut a long story short, after a whole lot of drilling and tapping, a whole lot of grinding and some bracket making, she is all mounted up.

When i rotated the housing I figured that if I mess up the holes and tapping I can either a.) put it back to original a forget the intercooler for now or b.) drill right through and use a bolt AND a nut to secure the housing. THere was plenty of meat so went for option b. Worked out fine but the mounts for the wastegate bracket were in a position that the wasgtegate was off on an angle and the actuating rod would bind on operation. Had the cut the original wastegate bracket and grind the "lugs" for original mounting off the compressor housing.

So all in all I had an eventual evening ending at 3am this morning. Any answers to the above would be appreciated as some things just don't add up. Like the larger flange on the manifold, guessing thats for the 4jg2 BUT the fact my turbo was against being rotated from the start pointed me to the turbo being of the 4jg2. Oh and the manifold with the larger flange has a noticeably larger outlet port to the turbo.

Tonights job will be to fit eh boost controller and cut the hole in the bonnet and fit the scoop. Surely this can't be that hard but famous last words aye.
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Re: Go fast bits

Postby pig75 » Wed Nov 21, 2012 6:17 am

Rhb5 is in the 2.8 MU's & Rodeos
Rhf5 is in the 3.1 MU's & bighorns
I have both the rhb5 & rhf5 they both have the same exhaust housing.
My guess is that the very late model Rodeo have a different exhaust manifold and housing on the turbo.
It might be the same as the 4jh1 Rodeo
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Re: Go fast bits

Postby manwithav8 » Wed Nov 21, 2012 6:58 am

Pig, it was taken off a 1989 4jb1 from a rodeo. The trademe listing said 2.8 4jb1 turbo so assumed all would be ok. Have contacted the seller to confirm year and engine. It does bolt up to the head perfectly though.
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Re: Go fast bits

Postby manwithav8 » Wed Nov 21, 2012 8:03 am

Next issue is the black plastic shroud sits too high, bonnet won't close so won't be using that. Am I then wasting my time fitting the rubber belows between intercooler and bonnet or should I still fit it? Either way it is going to get good air flow over the intercooler because it sits real close to the bonnet when closed?

Scoop only or scoop and belows???
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Re: Go fast bits

Postby pig75 » Wed Nov 21, 2012 8:09 am

manwithav8 wrote:Pig, it was taken off a 1989 4jb1 from a rodeo. The trademe listing said 2.8 4jb1 turbo so assumed all would be ok. Have contacted the seller to confirm year and engine. It does bolt up to the head perfectly though.


But your vehicle is a 2000 rodeo
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Re: Go fast bits

Postby pig75 » Wed Nov 21, 2012 8:16 am

The bolt centers on the mu/rodeo turbo are 57mm
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Re: Go fast bits

Postby manwithav8 » Wed Nov 21, 2012 8:34 am

pig75 wrote:The bolt centers on the mu/rodeo turbo are 57mm


Yeah the rodeo is a 2000 but still running 4jb1t. The replacement manifold bolt holes are 57mm so I'm now wondering if mine has a different turbine housing to fit the old manifold I have. The turbo and manifold currently fitted have 47mm bolt holes. The turbo a RHF5
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