94 Mu auto body, engine & Gearbox lift

[sleeker]

Hi Guys i got some 2 inch body lift blocks and ready to install them but i was reading the info on the lifts but it all seems to refer to manual ones. Is there anything different i have to do for the Auto? ie the auto shifter? Also i wanted to find out what's required in doing the engine lift / gear box lift to get the hump of the auto box above the chassis. Any advise is much appreciated.

Thanks in advance
Andrew

[tealz83]

Disconnect the rods from the gearbox to the Auto shift lever, then do the body lift. Hook up the rods again by adusting them. They can be adjusted as they use threaded rod for each link end.

[Captcol]

Yup should have disconnected mine first ... nevermind. WIth the gearbox lift I don't think people have lifted the engine at the same time. One thing to consider is your drive line angles if you lift the suspension

[sleeker]

Thanks guys, have you guys had any issues with hump under the gearbox / transfer case getting in the way when your off road?

[daisy]

Thanks guys, have you guys had any issues with hump under the gearbox / transfer case getting in the way when your off road?

Yip but increasing tyre size helps heaps

[geeves]

Are you talking about the guard under the transfer case. Its protection. If its not getting hit its not doing its job. It can be straightened with a 5 pound hammer and ear muffs. Its a good job for a Sunday morning after the neighbours had a party Sat night till 3am but straightening the fuel tank guard is better. Dont let it get too bent as this exposes the drain plug. I have heard of a few rock crawlers that have caught the sump plug and ripped it out

[sleeker]

Yeah well in my mu the transfer case hangs past the chassie line and the guard hangs heaps lower so it reduce my clearance under the vehicle where i tend to hit that a can not go over things due to it so was interested in lifting the gear box / transfer case so i could get it above or in line with the chassie so it will not be a point that will hit. I didn't think too much about the fuel tank guard as i haven't hit that yet as the transfercase and guard has not allowed me to go far enough to bottem out the fuel tank / guard.

Thanks for the advise on the fuel tank guard it would have been the next think i would have been trying to sort out...

[geeves]

On all the ones Ive looked at the clearance between the guard and case is required and will only change if you do a gearbox lift. That guard is only 4mm steel and does bend Ive had to straighten mine a few times. When the drain plug is below the guard its time to straighten.
After lifting the gearbox you may be able to fabricate something that sits higher

[daisy]

If you want to lift the auto and transfer case up to the height of the rails you will have to lift the engine as well which means body lift ,a bit of other stuff too! Just fit big tyres and learn to drive with that being the lowest point

[muzila]

i dont have a gearbox guard under my Mu. *8-( Can someone put up a pic of one please? I going to see if I can get one.

[slightlydodgy]

I have the motor and box lift but there are a few things to consider first Mine was reletivly simple as I have a petrol motor and a manual When you lift the gearbox you also need to lengthen the drive shafts for me it wasnt a problem as the front one slides anyway and my gearbox has a slip shaft (not a flange) to the rear -50mm lift makes a gap of 20-30mm. Another thing is that it can alter the pinion angles at the diff which can cause nasty vibrations. I got around this because I have a 2 piece rear shaft (long wheelbase). Lifting the gearbox is pretty easy I unbolted the mount from the box and put a piece of box section in with longer bolts. The front is more difficult the engine mounts are at 45 deg so you can't just pack the the same way. For the lift you want you need to make a box thats been "squashed" to 45deg and drill the appropriate holes fitting is fiddly one bolt up and one down for the mounts but getting at the drivers side is a pain andI dont have the exhaust on that side as well If you need more I'll try to find some pics

[Captcol]

Yup bigger tyres also increases dif clearances and suspension lift also pics up the gearbox a bit, I haven't got stuck on top of anything yet - I get crossed up and have issues, going to try left foot braking to help with this

[sleeker]

DSC01354.JPG

i dont have a gearbox guard under my Mu. *8-( Can someone put up a pic of one please? I going to see if I can get one.

Hi Muzila i think the part that i am referring to is the transfer case guard.

Thanks all for the advise i guess i'll live with it for a bit longer and see how i go. here are some pics anyways.

I have 2 inch suspension and will be doing the 2inch body before i get the 33 on and then i hope it all goes a bit better.

[muzila]

Dont have that. Off to the wreckers i go.........

[slightlydodgy]

Pity you are in ChCh You could have mine thats sitting under the bench

[geeves]

Best look for Honda CR-V forums to ask this. Its unlikely anyone here can give much more than basic info on that SUV
Honda does make good cars and the CR-V is very good for what it was designed to do. It has a monocoque construction as opposed to separate chassis so body lifts are impossible. You can do spring lifts by replacing the springs but I would advise against it. The CR-V is not a full on 4x4 so no advantage would be gained with a lift and the extra hight does affect cornering and braking quite badly. All the modified vehicles on this forum are driven cautiously on the road.
New standard springs would solve the lean issue but Im surprised a 3 year old car has bad springs

[slightlydodgy]

I think it one of "them" again boss