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Reindexing Torsion Bars

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Reindexing Torsion Bars

Postby dasnoboarder » Tue Nov 17, 2009 8:08 am

Hey

I've just put in my Lovells HR-15 lifted springs, and cranked up the torsion bars 50mm.

The ride is very stiff at the front and bouncy.
Swaybar still disconnected. No balljoint flip yet, couldn't get spindle off! No bullbar or winch on the front.

Can reindexing the torsion bars make the ride softer? Or do I have to back off the lift to 40/45mm?

Image

Cheers,
Andy.
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Re: Reindexing Torsion Bars

Postby geeves » Tue Nov 17, 2009 10:01 am

All reindexing is is relocating the bars on the spline so both are in the middle of the range of adjustment. It does nothing to the ride or hight.
2 possibilities. You have run out of travel at the front which can only be solved with a ball joint flip or your front shocks need replacing or a combination
Sanding your knuckles before starting work can help. That way you cant skin them
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Re: Reindexing Torsion Bars

Postby wbski007 » Tue Nov 17, 2009 10:25 am

good looking MU Andy, I like it, great wheels,
Wayne
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Happy Trails, Wayne
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Re: Reindexing Torsion Bars

Postby dasnoboarder » Tue Nov 17, 2009 11:21 am

Thanks Geeves,
I think I'm at the end of the adjustment bolt with the 50mm lift, is it a good idea to reindex the bars or is it ok to leave it at the end?
Will see how the bouncyness goes after the ball joint flip.

Wayne, those rims are soon going to be sitting in the garage or sold, being replaced by 15x8 black steel ones with my new muddies. Will be a little sad to see the old gold alloys go though...
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Re: Reindexing Torsion Bars

Postby geeves » Tue Nov 17, 2009 4:17 pm

You will have to adjust them at some stage but theres no reason not to leave them till it has to be done
Sanding your knuckles before starting work can help. That way you cant skin them
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Re: Reindexing Torsion Bars

Postby dasnoboarder » Tue Nov 17, 2009 4:53 pm

Cheers Geeves, if I'm ever in Welly, I owe you a few beers I reckon
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Re: Reindexing Torsion Bars

Postby wbski007 » Tue Nov 17, 2009 11:39 pm

If I lived closer I'd buy those wheels off you, their old stile, like me :lol:
I live in my own little world, but its OK they know me here.
Happy Trails, Wayne
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Re: Reindexing Torsion Bars

Postby dasnoboarder » Wed Nov 18, 2009 5:36 am

Haha, they came with the truck from Japan, can't seem to find much on the brand "berg", although I'm told many Jap imports come with them.

Maybe I'll keep them just incase I ever want to have a set of road tyres!
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Re: Reindexing Torsion Bars

Postby mulover » Wed Nov 18, 2009 12:48 pm

you really need at least 25 - 35mm gap between the arm and bump stop to absorb the bumps of a normal road.
Also, check that the bottom a-arm will still touch the bump stop under full compression, if not you are losing travel.
Oh how i miss my mu, the lux is just not the same :(
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Re: Reindexing Torsion Bars

Postby geeves » Wed Nov 18, 2009 2:28 pm

Those mags are common on nissan patrols
Sanding your knuckles before starting work can help. That way you cant skin them
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Re: Reindexing Torsion Bars

Postby dasnoboarder » Wed Nov 18, 2009 3:22 pm

The exact mags? Or the brand?

I've seen some Hilux's with Berg alloys before, will look out for Patrols too.
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Re: Reindexing Torsion Bars

Postby turnturn » Wed Nov 18, 2009 3:49 pm

I agree with Mulover about checking that you still get full compression of the suspension.
When I got my 3.1 Mu it had been jacked up so high in the front that it had actually lost some articulation.
Not really what you want on an already limited IFS setup.
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Re: Reindexing Torsion Bars

Postby macca81 » Sat Jan 14, 2012 4:22 pm

hey mate ur truck looks awesome
i have a standed mu went over red rocks 2day
the trans fer case and exhaust was scraping on the rocks
so
im looking at lifting mine
but not sure how 2
could u help with this
cheers macca
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Re: Reindexing Torsion Bars

Postby geeves » Sun Jan 15, 2012 1:31 pm

The rocks by the always open gate past Karori light always scrape esspecialy if you get the line wrong otherwise it shouldnt scrape too much.
For the rear new springs is the best way to go although you can use extended shackles. Cost is the same either way as springs dont need cert but shackles do.
Front wind up the torrsion bars, ball joint flip and wheel alignment to match the rear. Disconect the swaybar befor doing It makes getting it level much easier. If getting certified leave it off.
Body high density polyurethane blocks. Cert required
Sanding your knuckles before starting work can help. That way you cant skin them
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