RHS front bumper

[geeves]

After a tree stump ambushed my original bumper I decided to build my own.

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I decided to use 75 x 50 RHS with a 4mm wall as it is strong and easy to work with and is wide enough to satisfy our wof rules
After cutting to length I made the new mounting brackets and centred the bar in place to drill 2 of the mounting holes

plan.jpg

Then measured the first bend cut a v out of the back bent round and welded. This leaves a nice unbroken front to the bar which also gives a nice even bend

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Then a second bend takes the end round to match the guard (no photo yet)
Still to do
final trim and cap the ends plus grind the welds
rust proof and paint
Maybe take the top hoop off the old bullbar and mount onto this one.

What is a good way to rustproof the inside of the bar or will a couple of drain holes be enough.
Any other thoughts on this design?
Maybe in the future a second piece of rhs on top then remount the winch which will allow the bumper to mount higher

[Demonic]

Looks good Alan.
Once you got it how you want it and put the end caps on, id have the drain holes - 2 or 3, and spray inside with fish oil, somehow getting it to really mist up inside the tube. then use pop rivits to seal it again, and paint.

Drain hole by themself are useless, water will get in and mud then mud will plug the holes leaving water to rust it.

Did you custom fab the mounts for this bar from the chassis again?

[geeves]

Mounts are pieces of 10mm steel bent to a right angle then drilled to match the original bumper mounting holes and captive nuts.
I was going to leave the drains open as the mounting holes are not sealed so water is always going to get in

[Demonic]

May have to have a look at how you did the mounts, then maybe i will have a go at making one.

[geeves]

Bighorn is quite different to the mu in the way the front bumper mounts but your welcome to hay a look.

[mulover]

The best way to rust proof the inside is to fully seal it so no air can get in. Rust needs moisture and air so if you eliminate the air you are sweet. I'm guessing your bolting the RHS to the mount and the mount to the chassis. If you use crush tubes through the RHS then it will be sealed???

[Tread]

You could always get it hot dipped galvinised that way it will never rust, well not before the rest of the truck rusts or another tree jumps out in front of you

[geeves]

Yes thought about galv esspecialy with the number of beach trips I do. How much does it cost? As this may change again is it possible to paint the outside then strip this paint for galv or would it be better to make sure its finished before anything.
ps wof time is 3 weeks away

[Demonic]

Its a shame work is so busy otherwise id get it put through the baths at work for you,

Dunno on cost but try Valley Platers or electrozinc, we use both at work for our RAV frames.

[slightlydodgy]

Looks Really good and simple The main section of mine was built the same way but I used 4 x 2 channel with a 6mm wall. Apparently you can use 8mm. No water problems but bloody heavy when you want to fit it on your own. Bulls havent bent this one though.

[geeves]

I thought about the larger thickness but would rather bend the bumper than the chassis.
The old bumper did a fairly good job of protecting everything but was mortally wounded in its efforts. Only damage to the car was the headlight knocked off its adjuster and the flat panel that forms part of the inner guard bent. Nothing that a screwdriver, 5 pound hammer and 3 hours couldnt fix at home.
A more solid bumper would of bent the chassis A factory one would probably seen doors that dont open. It was wound out in second when it hit the tree stump and stopped dead.

[slightlydodgy]

OUCH

[mulover]

A local guy back home had his whole winch bar, sides included, made out of 6 or 8mm plate, was heavy as but he only ever put one dint in it and even then the tree had a bigger dint in it!!!!

[geeves]

Stage one is complete complete with a coat of paint. It can take a highlift lifting a wheel at the first corner on both sides but the mounting brackets bent when I tryed the same thing right at the end of the bar. May have to make the mounts out of something heavier than 8mm or brace them. Number plate is now mounted to the side of the winch

[geeves]

Good news the wof man accepted it without question. He did however fail me for not reconnecting the sway bar (oops) 10 minutes tonight and back tomorrow.

[Demonic]

HAHAHA!!!!

[geeves]

Thanks lol doh etc
actually I thought about the swaybar after I left the car at the shop but though never mind he will fail a loose tie rod end and binding wheel bearing anyway. He passed those
Its already ready to go back for the recheck.

[bigskellsy]

The bumpers on my 88 troop have seen better days. I was thinking of modding front and rear bumpers. Any ideas on the minimum diameter of the steel for WOF? Knowing that the factory bumper is thin as!

[geeves]

Min radius of any bend is 50mm front and 5mm rear otherwise as long as it looks safe it passes

[wbski007]

Looks good Alan, bravo, I like the idea of putting the top part of the old bull bar over the winch. You could temporaly block off one end and pour some rust proof paint in the other and slosh it around and then pour it back out, then just leave the ends open??