Idling fast after warm-up

[teammckay]

Hi All,

2.8TD TF 2001 Rodeo

I managed to leave my ignition on last night, therefore flattening the battery. Luckily I have a dual system, so I engaged it and off I went.

The ute felt extra gutless on the way onto the freeway, and not long later it was idling at 1k RPM (I had adjusted the idle speed to be 750 a few days ago).

I get home, and start fiddling. When the engine warms up, it's hitting 1500RPM, and it will idle at 1500RPM forever. I've checked the acc cable, and it's not sticking, I've disconnected both batteries again, no luck. I'm not sure if this is just a coincidence or if the dead battery has caused my problem.

I'm attempting to find various bits and pieces on the engine that have been reported to be checked in case of funny idling, but I'm having a hard time finding them (fast idle bits and pieces).

Checked all fuses, and nothing has blown.

I'm lost for ideas at the moment and it's quickly giving me the shits trying to work out why it's flipped out on me all of a sudden. Any ideas?

Thanks!

[geeves]

sticky throttle cable, Mine does this every time I go through muddy water and crc always fixes it
Ecess blowby causing the engine to run on slight oil mist
someones been fiddle with the hand throttle device in the cab.
Only one that also explains power loss is the blowby

[teammckay]

Thanks a ton Geeves. Your info helped me come to my senses that it would be something simple.

I realised I was assuming the cold idle was correct, even though it ran nice at warm. I flipped my thinking and then had another look at the idle adjuster. It looks like i didn't have it up tight enough so the vibration of the engine was tightening it when I was on the gas!!

After hours upon hours of stressing that's all it was. I've tightened the bugger right up and loctit'd it and it's now running sweet!

I checked the blowby and it's not looking like an issue as well. Thanks for the heads up on that.

I am wondering if the poor power was the alternator working hard to recharge the bat?

[geeves]

If its factory alternator then max charge is 80 amps that works out at just over 1 horsepower or 1% of the engines power. Not sure you would notice.
Far more common fault causing power loss which Ive had to fix on several cars sometimes more than once is the mats bunching up under the accelerator.

[teammckay]

Hmm good point. I will have to keep an eye on it. It may be that I was just being soft on it or there's another issue at play.

I have it going into the mech for a once over and to swap in a new master cyl for the clutch. See what comes of it.

Thanks again.

[geeves]

If you can adjust idle you should be able to replace a clutch master cylinder.

[teammckay]

To be honest I didn't look into it and assumed you need to bleed the system. From my motorbike days and bleeding brakes I figured it sounds like a right pain in the arse. Bloke over the road should be cheap enough, but having said that I'd rather do the work myself in most instances!

[geeves]

bleeding a clutch is generally no drama. Just make sure the handbrake is on. Dont ask how I know this or where I was when I found out. I will say the wife got nearly as big a shock as I did.
Only clue to the job is that its far easier with the bonnet off