4jg2 timing belt replacement

by **dusty1** » Tue Mar 22, 2011 4:10 pm

Hi would any one recomend replacing the camshaft oil seals when replacing timing belt ,motor just done 100,000 kls, if so how much more involved than just doing timing belt?
p.s. anyone know of a decent pdf that relates?

by **geeves** » Tue Mar 22, 2011 4:34 pm

If there is evidence of leakage they should be done. If the job is done by a mechanic they would strongly suggest doing them and a lot of people here would agree. My wagon is on its third belt and still original seals.
I will send you a copy of the engine manual that covers the 4jg2 and 4jb1 engines

by **dusty1** » Tue Mar 22, 2011 6:14 pm

sweet as! thanks 4 that

by **sandman** » Thu Apr 14, 2011 7:17 pm

Abosolutly do the seals or you will pay later to the tune of a new camshaft. the reason is old seals get hard ,wear a groove on the cam surface. once the grove is there no seal on this earth will stop oil leaking down the front of the engine recking the timing belt in the process. some people like to leave it and use speedy sleaves once the damage is done but speedy sleeves retain friction heat too much and the groove happens in a mater of a year or so and then oil leaks again.

by **greenwolverine** » Mon Jan 09, 2012 10:54 am

Good day guys
I am planning to replace the timing belt on my 92 Bighorn 4jg2 UBS69 in a month or two, and am doing some homework.
The 4jb1 manual p 2042 has straightforward instructions, it seems to me.
I have some questions:

1 is it necessary to replace the tensioner pulley that is included in some kits that I have seen? It seems to cost about as much as the belt.

2. When changing out the camshaft oil seal and the front crank seal, can one do without the special tools mentioned in the manual? If not please recommend must-haves.

So far I have managed to get more accessible seals out and in with improvised tools.

Links to posts on doing the oil seals would also be much appreciated
THanks
Dirk

MY YouTube · by **pig75** » Mon Jan 09, 2012 1:19 pm

You don't need to replace the pulley unless the bearing is rough when you spin it. The camshaft seal is east to replace. I would replace the O ring as well that holds the camshaft seal carrier

by **geeves** » Mon Jan 09, 2012 6:49 pm

personaly I agree with the above but the tame mechanic that did the belt on my wizard at the same time as the water pump recons that at 100k do the belt only unless the tensioner and pully are noisy. At 200k do the lot regardless. Kit was about 150nz. BNT have the kit for square belt but not the round belt but the kit plus the round belt is still cheaper than all the parts just for the round belt. There is always trademe to get rid of the extra belt if needbe. Mine was square belt so the round went back

by **greenwolverine** » Tue Jan 10, 2012 9:49 am

Thanks for the usual speedy replies and helpful info.
Yes I'm approaching 200 so I'll take your advice and do the whole bang shoot.

My only nightmare is thinking about what happens when the gears (previously bolted into position) have to come off and shafts are on the loose while I'm getting the seals out and in.

Any precautionary tips ?

by **scruff123** » Tue Jan 10, 2012 12:33 pm

the cam an crank pully are keyed so only go back together the position they cam off so ull be sweet wit a little movement, just dont go spinning anything, also make shur timing mark on the crank pully and timing bolt holes on other pullys are bang and have the bolt in the fixes them into position in wen putting timing belt on

by **Kenneth** » Sat Jan 14, 2012 6:49 pm

I am having trouble with the cam seal leaking. There is a grove worn on the camshaft where the seal fits. Is a replacement camshaft the only means of fixing this problen?
Thanks
Ken

MY YouTube · by **pig75** » Sat Jan 14, 2012 7:12 pm

You can get different thickness seals so the seal will rub in a different spot or double lipped seals or a speedi sleeve

by **Kenneth** » Sat Jan 14, 2012 8:09 pm

Thanks for that. Any idea where these special seals are available? What is a speedy sleave?
Ken

MY YouTube · by **pig75** » Sat Jan 14, 2012 9:56 pm

Any bearing shop should have seals
http://www.skf.com/portal/skf/home/prod ... link=4_5_3

by **duceandahalf** » Mon Jan 16, 2012 3:42 am

Hi, I am changing my injector pump on my 3.1 Big Horn Trooper. Does anyone have a dirgarm or instruction on how to reset timing of the 4JG2T Turbo Diesel? I have the manual but give very little information in setting timing on engine. Any help would be most appriciated.

Bob Flagler Beach Florida USA

MY YouTube · by **pig75** » Mon Jan 16, 2012 6:17 am

which manual do you have??
The pump timing setting should be in the section SERVICE INFORMATION 00

by **duceandahalf** » Tue Jan 17, 2012 1:08 am

Pig, I have the Isuzu Workshop Manual 1992-UBS Series Part # M40895 (4 Manuals). Many thanks for you reply.

by **Kenneth** » Sun Feb 05, 2012 4:38 am

I cannot find a supplier in Christchurch of the special seal for the for the camshaft to overcome the grove problem. Can anyone help me with a supplier?
Thanks
Ken

by **geeves** » Sun Feb 05, 2012 1:05 pm

go to any seal seller. Im sure there will be an skf agent down there with the old seal and ask for a seal the same size but double lip. Another trick that works is to stop tapping the seal in a half mm from fully home. This also makes it run on a new spot

by **Kenneth** » Mon Feb 06, 2012 11:11 am

Thanks for that Alan
Ken

by **Kenneth** » Sat Feb 11, 2012 10:17 am

I replaced the seal and didn't push it right home and it seems to have fixed the problem. The groove was very small so I was suprised how much oil went past. The tip to use the starter motor to undo the crankshaft bolt worked a treat. I had thought of it before but didn't have the courage to try it!!!
Thanks for your help
Ken

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