Hey everyone, many thanks in advance for any advice you may have for me. I just installed a 4JG2T but it will not start.
Just a bit of history on this build first so as to better understand what im into or how deep in over my head I really am! I bought a used 4JG2T with 120K on it, that I installed in my 2004 Land Rover Discovery. The motor was pulled from an operating Isuzu Bighorn Trooper which came with the mechanical pump, not the fly by wire, and was delivered fully intact.
Now here's where it gets fun/miserable, I purposely bought a used motor that was intact and running in order to take the weak link out of the mechanical equation, which was me. I say that not because I don't know how to turn a wrench but because this will be my third failed attempt to build a successful 4JG2T; more like four attempts actually. I feel like im stuck in some parallel Monty Python scene where "I built that castle/motor, that one sank into the swamp, so I built a second one, that one sank into the swamp, so I built a third one, that one burnt down, fell over, then sank into the swamp"!
With that said, the last motor I bought was new from China and felt, as did the first one, like it was in "limp mode". I made a slight adjustments to the IP pressure, advanced the timing a bit, and installed an electric lift pump in order to get it to start. I drove it a quarter mile down the road and the turbo blew up, sending the equivalent of a bucket of sand through the engine that absolutely destroyed the bearings/crank! Not knowing the full extent of what just happened, I watched the oil pressure drop from 85 to 7psi in a matter of seconds as I idled out of traffic to a safe place on the side of the road. (copper bearing within the "new" turbo was pummeled without explanation, though failure to lubricate is the culprit). after teardown, I checked to see if the camshaft oil galleys were restricted by the bearings causing the oil supply to the turbo to be compromised, but no, they were correct.
So heres what I'm working with now. I put my new/used engine i just got from a UK yard and placed it on a shop stand, replaced the timing belt and front main seal, which was leaking and Installed a brand new IP pump which I timed, via dial gauge, to 1.04 BTDC. (due to high altitude operation, about 5400ft above sea level, I gave it .04 increase above the recommended degree described in the Isuzu manual). I then Installed the motor into my 04 Land Rover Discover that I had set up for this with.
Once installed, I depressed the fuel filter diaphragm to prime the Pump, bled the pump from the bleeder valve located at the return line fitting. The diaphragm will stiffens up after about 7 or 8 pumps and then after about 10 seconds it relaxes a bit so I don't know if thats an issue. I opened the injector lines at the injector to bleed off any air as i turned to motor a few time, closed all but the #1 cylinder at second start up but didn't notice any "squirt". I placed a section of clear fuel line post the filter canister to observe potential air that might be contaminating the system but no air was observed traveling through the fuel line. However, i've not been able to get the engine to start so the volume of fuel is a bit limited. I understand that these iP's pull fuel directly from the tank without a lift pump? Thats a very rare thing to see on any Diesel in US, but then again, most mechanics here look at this engine as if it were a pink unicorn so no surprise if it doesn't use one. I should mention that the original land Rover in-tank fuel pump was gutted and only the housing remains modified with a brass bulkhead that pulls fuel directly and uninhibited through a 3/8" fuel line.
So, no start, some popping to signify the shutoff solenoid is working, which I also check with an independent 12V source just to be sure...Did a compression test that showed 425 pounds across all four cylinders (cold) so its probably a bit lower then that at temp but I imagine still well within tolerance. Replaced two failed glow plugs and confirmed the valve lash. I've run all new fuel lines and check for breach in fitting, reinstalled the original IP pump and still nothing. Their is no ECU, oil level sensor, or an immobilizer that would otherwise prevent the motor from starting. I've installed an aftermarket electric oil pressure gauge, independent ignition switched 12v source to the solenoid, bypassed the neutral safety switch, which is more land Rover anyway, and considered making a visit to the liquor store this morning.
One thing im not sure how to do exactly is reset the wax CSD (part of timing adjustment) described in the manual as "with a screw driver" which I used to depress the spring loaded valve maybe 90 degree or so. ???
So im leery, very leery of making any adjustments to the IP pressure or incorporates any fuel assisted components that my manipulate or mask the real problem, in which case I don't want to deviate too far from the original working order of the Trooper in fear of losing another engine! Im out on my own with this one so any help would be greatly appreciated!!!