-
- Advertisement
Front cross member
6 posts
• Page 1 of 1
Front cross member
by geeves » Sun Jul 04, 2010 6:57 pm
Has anyone else had the crossmember come loose between the two front suspension towers? Mines done it 3 times now and this time one of the bolts striped when tightening. Result a horrible noise through 50km of off road tracks. Put a new bolt in and retightened the rest but the cross member doesnt seem as tight as it should be
Sanding your knuckles before starting work can help. That way you cant skin them
-
geeves - Site Admin
- Posts: 8964
- Joined: Sun May 10, 2009 1:36 pm
- Location: Rangiora
- Age: 63
- Country: NZ
- City: Rangiora
- Vehicle: 94 bighorn 4jg2
2013 Subaru XV
Re: Front cross member
by wbski007 » Mon Jul 05, 2010 6:52 am
strange that a cross member is coming loose, is there something else going on there, I know this is not answering your question Alan but how about some locktight or if worse comes to worse, put some welds on it, don't go crazy tho in case you ever want to remove it!!
I live in my own little world, but its OK they know me here.
Happy Trails, Wayne
Happy Trails, Wayne
-
wbski007 - Isuzu Guru
- Posts: 649
- Joined: Sun Sep 27, 2009 7:04 am
- Location: Mary Esther,Florida
- Age: 67
- Country: USA
- City: Mary Esther
- Vehicle: 1998 Isuzu Rodeo,with a 2001,2.5 turbo diesel motor,5 speed,inter-cooler,turned up fuel,adjusted waste gate for 14 psi of boost,air bags under front end with torsion bars ,2.5 exhaust straight thru sidepipe no muffler.
1949 Dodge 2 1/2 ton pumper fire truck, 15,000 original miles, with a 1991 Cummins 5.9 diesel, turned up fuel, 5 speed trans, two speed rear, also added P/S, P/B.
Re: Front cross member
by geeves » Mon Jul 05, 2010 5:35 pm
I think it has to come off for engine removal. It does have some decent dents in it though so it could be time to replace it. Why did they only make it from 6mm steel?
Sanding your knuckles before starting work can help. That way you cant skin them
-
geeves - Site Admin
- Posts: 8964
- Joined: Sun May 10, 2009 1:36 pm
- Location: Rangiora
- Age: 63
- Country: NZ
- City: Rangiora
- Vehicle: 94 bighorn 4jg2
2013 Subaru XV
Re: Front cross member
by holden » Mon Jul 05, 2010 6:05 pm
geeves wrote:I think it has to come off for engine removal. It does have some decent dents in it though so it could be time to replace it. Why did they only make it from 6mm steel?
I took my engine out without removing the cross member.
Maybe try new bolts and nyloc nuts
-
holden - Isuzu Junior
- Posts: 67
- Joined: Sat May 09, 2009 6:43 am
- Age: 16
- Country: New Zealand
- City: Whangarei
- Vehicle: 91 Isuzu MU 2.8T D (4JB1T)
Re: Front cross member
by wbski007 » Mon Jul 05, 2010 10:09 pm
any chances of getting a photo of your cross member?? no big deal if not
I live in my own little world, but its OK they know me here.
Happy Trails, Wayne
Happy Trails, Wayne
-
wbski007 - Isuzu Guru
- Posts: 649
- Joined: Sun Sep 27, 2009 7:04 am
- Location: Mary Esther,Florida
- Age: 67
- Country: USA
- City: Mary Esther
- Vehicle: 1998 Isuzu Rodeo,with a 2001,2.5 turbo diesel motor,5 speed,inter-cooler,turned up fuel,adjusted waste gate for 14 psi of boost,air bags under front end with torsion bars ,2.5 exhaust straight thru sidepipe no muffler.
1949 Dodge 2 1/2 ton pumper fire truck, 15,000 original miles, with a 1991 Cummins 5.9 diesel, turned up fuel, 5 speed trans, two speed rear, also added P/S, P/B.
Re: Front cross member
by daisy » Tue Jul 06, 2010 4:06 pm
Try a bit of lock tight and new spring washers???
-
daisy - Isuzu Senior
- Posts: 156
- Joined: Sat May 09, 2009 2:58 pm
- Age: 48
- Country: New Zealand
- City: Wellington
- Vehicle: '94 Isuzu Mu 3.1 auto
6 posts
• Page 1 of 1
Return to Drive train, Steering and Suspension
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 29 guests