AUTOMATIC HUB REMOVAL - help please! ...NOW A HOW TO GUIDE!

[gomulletgo]

SOLUTION TO THIS PROBLEM BELOW

I tried to remove one of my automatic hubs today so I could tighten the wheel bearings and put on my manual hubs.

The vehicle is an 89 bighorn UBS55 model. I can't get all of the auto hub off, now I'm stuck with no 4wd

So my question is how do I get the damn thing off? Has anyone else done this? I searched the forums, asked an apprentice mechanic mate to look at it, we are both stumped.

Here is a picture of the bit's I can remove.

PICT0709EDIT2@20.JPG

Here is a picture of what's left, there is a red line indicating all the parts that still have to come off

PICT0713EDIT@20.JPG

In this picture I have indicated an internal snap ring, I have no idea how to get this off as it is internal and is not a circlip, so there is no way (I know of) to grab it and tension it inwards and get it out. It may not even need to come off, I don't know.

PICT0712EDIT@20.JPG

Any help would be great as I want 4wd again before xmas

[pig75]

That outer splined bit should just slide off it is part of the auto hub

auto.JPG

[geeves]

Ive only ever pulled one of these apart and cant remember any tricks. I was only after the hub assembly behind it and its probably still spread over the wreckers yard. Right where your arrow is you should be able to use a small screwdriver to release that clip but I dont remember having to do anything beyond removeing the one circlip in the top picture. They can stick if moisture has got in so try placeing a block of wood over it and give it a sharp hammer tap. It should pull off. The other thing to try is to try and slide the axle out the back

[slightlydodgy]

Then throw away and replace with manual

[geeves]

Hes got to get it off before he can do that

[muzila]

1. Take the wheel off!

2. You have all the parts of the autohub off but the outer ring.

Heres what you need to remove circled in red.

Autohub.JPG

If I remember correctly that spline is the stub axle but that toothed ring around it has to come off.

What are the manual hubs you are replacing with?

Have a look at this PDF file. the only differance is Isuzu don't have the bolt in the end of the shaft to hold the hub in.

AisinHubs.pdf

[gomulletgo]

Thanks to all for your help

Result! The auto hubs are off and the aisin manual hubs are on. My way of saying thanks is to turn this into a "how to" for the next poor bugger.

Right, in my first post in the top pic all that needs to be removed first is the outer cover (the two top right components in the picture) Next the axle snap ring and shims need to be removed.

Note: all other pieces in the first picture did not need to be removed in this manner, and shouldn't have been.

Now the tricky part, removing the "drive clutch assembly" in the picture below I have circled one of two tabs (you can see both tabs in muzila's picture in the red circle.)

I found the best way to get the "drive clutch assembly" off in one piece was to use two large flat head screw drivers, put them behind those tabs and lever the thing out, there is a bit of resistance to get it off, enough to make you think your doing the wrong thing

PICT0713EDIT2@20.JPG

I hope this helps someone

Cheers to all who helped again

[Tbone]

it helps me! i just cleaned out some manual Aisin ones today that i was intending to swap tomorrow, i've just been looking for a how-to for these so thanks! now just got to figure out what the deal is with shims, i didn't realise there were any of those in there, the manual hubs didn't have any when i bought them off trademe...

[gomulletgo]

Sweet my good deed is done Take that snap ring off and the two shims, keep them with the auto hub. Now for the aisin, put the inner piece on, put the spacer on the axle shaft (goes over the axle splines) Now put the circlip on the axle shaft, again it goes onto the first part of the splined section (if the axle shaft is too far inwards put a bolt in the center of it and pull it out) Now put the outer hub on. Obviously grease stuff as you go and RTV silicon up the hub mating surfaces as you bolt it together

[geeves]

The shims are to stop free play in the axle. If you can move the axle backwards and forwards in the hub it will pump water in with predictable results. The shims go behind the circlip. Aim for as little play as possible but not tight

[Tbone]

wicked! thanks guys,

btw apparently a rebuild kit from holden for a manual Aisin hub is about $300 thank god for pick-a-part.

[turnturn]

I think that the correct free play is 0-0.30mm (0-012"). I aim for halfway (0.15mm)
Shims are available (0.20, 0.30, 0.50 & 1.0mm) from Holden Dealers in New Zealand.

[muzila]

All the kit really is are 2 gaskets a spring and a rubber seal if I remember correctly. all obtainable elsewhere for a fraction of the cost.

In fact don't even use gaskets. Use silicone sealer or some other sealer!!

[gomulletgo]

The shims are to stop free play in the axle. If you can move the axle backwards and forwards in the hub it will pump water in with predictable results. The shims go behind the circlip. Aim for as little play as possible but not tight

I'm not sure we are talking about the same thing here, the auto hub shims and snap ring go on the axle shaft at the tapered down non-splined bit. The aisin hub "spacer" (maybe a shim?) and circlip are much bigger in size and they go on the splined part of the axle shaft. I can't see anyway the auto hub shims and snap ring are used in the aisin hub install. I'm aware there is the other way of installing the aisin hub with a bolt/washer setup.

That part about pumping water in is interesting. I should check my axle shaft for in and out movement. I thought the axle shaft was supposed to move in and out because the suspension is probably not a parallelogram setup and therefore all the links are moving different distances.

In fact don't even use gaskets. Use silicone sealer or some other sealer!!

I've had no failures with just using high temp silicon sealers on ones I've done in the past, so I can confirm, gaskets are probably not needed

[turnturn]

My understanding of this is that the freeplay being discussed above is between the splined driving axle and the hub/assembly it runs within. This is set, and unaffected by, whatever method of hub locking system you are using. The locking hub only transfers power from the splined driving axle (half-shaft?) to the rotating hub.

gomulletgo wrote:
"I thought the axle shaft was supposed to move in and out because the suspension is probably not a parallelogram setup and therefore all the links are moving different distances."

This movement is allowed for within the inner CV.

[geeves]

The manual and auto hub use a different circlip. If you look at your axle you will see a groove at the top of the spline. On the manual hub the circlip goes in this groove and the shims fit between this and the body of the inner part of the hub

[Tbone]

I think that the correct free play is 0-0.30mm (0-012"). I aim for halfway (0.15mm)
Shims are available (0.20, 0.30, 0.50 & 1.0mm) from Holden Dealers in New Zealand.

Does anyone know the part numbers for these? i've spent the last few days driving around trying to track some down from absolutely everywhere but when i tried Holden they said they don't have the shims for isuzus (or even the rodeo) which seems very strange, but they were pretty adamant. mine have too much movement and i need to put a 0.6mm shim (or 0.5mm should be close enough) on each side. tried the wreckers too but they all seem to have the 1.0mm thick ones, even tried various bolt shops, engineering suppliers etc..

[turnturn]

I got mine from Cooke Howlison here in Dunedin. They are/were the Isuzu dealers.
From memory it was no big deal. The parts guy knew what I was after. They had some in stock and had to get some from elsewhere in New Zealand.
Sorry, but I never kept the packaging/invoice from mine.
Just use 5 or 6 0.10mm shims?

[Tbone]

thanks mate, its trying to find some of that shape (or close enough) that seems to be the problem, regardless of thickness, but i'll give those guys a call, fingers crossed.

[Captcol]

Apparently my auto hubs are different again, and hopefully the aisin ones I picked up will transfer accross ....

west coast 031.JPG

this is where I have got to stripping the old auto hubs .... no idea where to go from here though

west coast 033.JPG

Any ideas?