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hand brake problem

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hand brake problem

Postby MUsterious1 » Mon Oct 26, 2009 11:49 pm

i have a problem my handbrake dont work i pull it on and the mu still rolls i adjusted the cables and nothing i have looked at the mount on the back of the brakes but im not sure what im looking at as i never really had anything to do with handbrakes or 4x4s befor my mu can any one help me :cry:
I think therefore i am confused
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Re: hand brake problem

Postby pig75 » Tue Oct 27, 2009 7:42 am

Seized hand break cable
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Re: hand brake problem

Postby geeves » Tue Oct 27, 2009 7:58 am

These handbrakes are so finicky that I would always do everything every time there is a problem
1 Caliper slides Its a single pot calliper with a slide to activate the other side. If the slides seize only one side works. One side is the bolt the other is a sleeve. Use very high temp grease.
2 linkages Give them all a good lube
3 cable Take both rear cables off and make sure they are free moving in the outer. If these stick at all the brake doesnt release properly and resets the adjustment so all you get is the end stop. Correct adjustment is for the cable to hold the lever on the calliper 1mm away from the end stop when released.
They are the easy things
Next is calliper adjustment. At the back of the calliper is a 12mm brass nut. Remove this and inside is a 8mm allen key(and possibly a little brake fluid Ignore this). Adjust this till the brakes rub then back off a little. If its seized or doesnt adjust the callipers need rebuilding which is a pain of a job
Sanding your knuckles before starting work can help. That way you cant skin them
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Re: hand brake problem

Postby Demonic » Thu Oct 29, 2009 7:27 am

Its not a pain, its just very expensive, i had a quote to get both my rears done @$375+gst EACH,

Has anyone actually recon'd there own callipers?
Cheers,
Andrew
**I couldn't repair my brakes, so I made my horn louder. Only problem is my horn doesnt work anymore.**
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Re: hand brake problem

Postby BUSHPIG » Thu Oct 29, 2009 8:04 am

"Has anyone actually recon'd there own callipers?" ive done some on a ubs69 bighorn b4. verry easy. and the rebuild kit is only $35 each side.
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Re: hand brake problem

Postby geeves » Thu Oct 29, 2009 9:10 am

UBS 69 has a normal brake calliper and an internal drum hand brake. Far simpler but makes fitting 15 inch wheels a little hard.
Our friend Richard did mine and never asked for payment (I had the seals)
Sanding your knuckles before starting work can help. That way you cant skin them
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Re: hand brake problem

Postby BUSHPIG » Thu Oct 29, 2009 10:14 am

couldnt be much harder than a normal calliper to rebuild i would imagan
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Re: hand brake problem

Postby Demonic » Thu Oct 29, 2009 11:01 am

I could do the piston seals easily, but that harder part would be the handbrake part. also hooning the cylinder aswell. Not sure i really want to play with brakes.
Cheers,
Andrew
**I couldn't repair my brakes, so I made my horn louder. Only problem is my horn doesnt work anymore.**
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Re: hand brake problem

Postby BUSHPIG » Thu Oct 29, 2009 11:08 am

if u want to/or need to hone the cylinders you can by a brake hone from repco/supercheer/engneering shop's. quite cheep and they last for years
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Re: hand brake problem

Postby Demonic » Thu Oct 29, 2009 11:55 am

yeah, but i have a feeling there is more to it then just the piston seal and honing the cylinder, i have heard suggestion of another seal for the handbrake. may be a good idea to see if the manual has something on how to recon callipers
Cheers,
Andrew
**I couldn't repair my brakes, so I made my horn louder. Only problem is my horn doesnt work anymore.**
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Re: hand brake problem

Postby geeves » Thu Oct 29, 2009 12:03 pm

Disc brakes dont normaly need honing. The seal sits in a groove in the cylinder and runs un a chrome surface on the piston. If the piston chrome is damaged ie rusty BNT andCity Center Autos in Porirua can get replacement pistons on an exchange basis
Sanding your knuckles before starting work can help. That way you cant skin them
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Re: hand brake problem

Postby chrisfnq » Thu Oct 29, 2009 12:57 pm

had mine rust out about 6 months ago, had to get new piston made as old ones too far gone, cheaper to get one turned up than to buy from repco up here. important thing is to hone and clean caliper carefully so the brakes dont leak again. Cost about $80 for new pistons with seal kit.
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Re: hand brake problem

Postby muzila » Sat Nov 14, 2009 2:45 pm

I having hand brake probs now too. I read up in the TFS manual but that only has drum rear brakes. I have discs. I think I will replace the pads as I guess its the same as the front. Just done them. and then go from there. Apart from the steps you mentiond geeves what else do I need to look out for when doing rear brakes??
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Re: hand brake problem

Postby Demonic » Sat Nov 14, 2009 6:24 pm

One thing i suggest since your doing your brakes is maybe changing the fluid if its not been done in ages. I recently exploded a rear caliper and 1 week later got a 2nd hand one as Holden NZ cant get new calipers for them anymore. Fluid in the lines was cloudy... and pedal is sorta spongee..
Cheers,
Andrew
**I couldn't repair my brakes, so I made my horn louder. Only problem is my horn doesnt work anymore.**
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Re: hand brake problem

Postby MUVIT » Fri Aug 27, 2010 11:05 am

any1 have a part numbers for a brake seal kit /replacement pistion (96 3.1td mu) my left rear is seized
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