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Torn cv boot

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Torn cv boot

Postby tertle » Tue Jul 28, 2015 9:28 pm

Ok today I decided to throw caution to the wind and remove break pad etc to remove some really annoying rock that I picked up whilst playing, sounded awful, turned out to be a pebble!!! But for someone who didn't know how to replace break pads think it was a success...... Till I saw the torn cv boot, now I'm really going to through all caution out the window....... I'm going to have a crack at fixing that myself, I've picked up the outside boot from repco, on a scale of 1-10 how likely am I to achieve this if I go slowly and take my time? And any tips tricks or suggestions, I've got 7 days of shiftwork ahead but planned to tackle this mid next week!
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tertle
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1990 Isuzu Trooper LWB 5 speed Manual......... Rebuilt top end, replaced all the seals, hoses and belts, 32" Bridgestone duellers MT, LSD, snorkel, 2" shackle lift, ball joint flip and tortion lift, manual hubs, breather tubes all round, tinted, UHF CB, about to put in dual battery,

Re: Torn cv boot

Postby geeves » Wed Jul 29, 2015 8:54 am

scale of one to 10 for someone not mechanically inclined =7
scale 1 to 10 for someone that follows the instructions in the book 8
Everyone else 4 (yes theres a trick)
First get both boots not just one Second buy a cv boot tool The job can be done without it with a large screwdriver and large needle nose pliers which is how I did it many times but you get it tighter with the correct tool and it knocks half an hour and 2 dozen swear words off the job Its about 30 bucks at repco
remove free wheel hub remove circlip from end of half shaft
jack car up and put axle stand under chassis take wheel off then remove brake calliper from axle Hang it with wire from chassis
remove the large band around the inner cv boot reach inside and remove a wire sping clip from inside the joint (you might have to turn the joint to find the end
Disconect top ball joint and tie rod If you are lucky the joint will pull out of the diff assembly remaing in the stub. If not you need to also unbolt the bottom ball joint and remove as an assembly
The axle will now pull out of the stub axle so you can check the condition of the seal and needle roller
on the axle take the circlip off the inner joint and remove the joint remove all the bands and both boots
Clean and replace as req and reinstall in the oposite order
Easy??????
Sanding your knuckles before starting work can help. That way you cant skin them
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Re: Torn cv boot

Postby tertle » Wed Jul 29, 2015 2:46 pm

Owww crap!
tertle
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1990 Isuzu Trooper LWB 5 speed Manual......... Rebuilt top end, replaced all the seals, hoses and belts, 32" Bridgestone duellers MT, LSD, snorkel, 2" shackle lift, ball joint flip and tortion lift, manual hubs, breather tubes all round, tinted, UHF CB, about to put in dual battery,

Re: Torn cv boot

Postby geeves » Thu Jul 30, 2015 1:10 pm

I do them in about an hour 30 a side I have seen a cv replaced in 15 minutes but that was in a field on a 4wd fun day
Sanding your knuckles before starting work can help. That way you cant skin them
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Re: Torn cv boot

Postby Downhillnz » Thu Jul 30, 2015 4:52 pm

I had to replace all four. Around the 2 hour mark with a few beers.

Lots of grease.... Wear rubber gloves.
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Re: Torn cv boot

Postby tertle » Thu Jul 30, 2015 5:10 pm

I'm putting 3 hours aside for one ;) remember I only just worked out how to changed break pads!!!!!!
tertle
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1990 Isuzu Trooper LWB 5 speed Manual......... Rebuilt top end, replaced all the seals, hoses and belts, 32" Bridgestone duellers MT, LSD, snorkel, 2" shackle lift, ball joint flip and tortion lift, manual hubs, breather tubes all round, tinted, UHF CB, about to put in dual battery,

Re: Torn cv boot

Postby Downhillnz » Thu Jul 30, 2015 5:18 pm

They probably aren't quite as easy or as clean as brake pads. Well done none the less. Have to start somewhere :)
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Re: Torn cv boot

Postby geeves » Thu Jul 30, 2015 5:27 pm

If youve never cracked a ball joint before even on other cars it might be safer to ask a fellow chch member to help of pass it to the experts. Its not a monster job but there are enough tricks.
If you find the needle roller damaged you will have to either put it together so you have a car while you buy new parts or leave it on blocks. The seal is holden only but the bearing can be got elsewhere if you get the old one out first and match numbers. Bearing shop will only have a listing on the bearing no.
Changing this bearing is a 5+ on the 1-10 scale because it has a thin shell and is easily damaged
Sanding your knuckles before starting work can help. That way you cant skin them
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Re: Torn cv boot

Postby tertle » Wed Aug 05, 2015 4:04 pm

Yeah, realised I've cocked up a little,I realise I now need to get new inner boot and remove the entire cv, plus the bottom castle nut I used a spanner as my socket set wasn't big enough, so looks as if I've got a bit of a walk tomorrow, now really dumb question on a YouTube video, oil or some fluid poured out when the cv joint was removed.......what where and how do I replace or top the oil???

Otherwise everything came apart really easily and it want to painful a process....... Just didn't really understand everything I was going to do!!!
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1990 Isuzu Trooper LWB 5 speed Manual......... Rebuilt top end, replaced all the seals, hoses and belts, 32" Bridgestone duellers MT, LSD, snorkel, 2" shackle lift, ball joint flip and tortion lift, manual hubs, breather tubes all round, tinted, UHF CB, about to put in dual battery,

Re: Torn cv boot

Postby stardog » Wed Aug 05, 2015 5:09 pm

That would be water mixed with grease that poured out from torn boots no liquid in them.
You need to clean and dry the cv 's then use cv grease to lubricate them.
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Re: Torn cv boot

Postby tertle » Wed Aug 05, 2015 6:38 pm

No I'm guessing I'm referring to the transmission where the cv joins into? Sorry just not mechanically minded!!!
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1990 Isuzu Trooper LWB 5 speed Manual......... Rebuilt top end, replaced all the seals, hoses and belts, 32" Bridgestone duellers MT, LSD, snorkel, 2" shackle lift, ball joint flip and tortion lift, manual hubs, breather tubes all round, tinted, UHF CB, about to put in dual battery,

Re: Torn cv boot

Postby mudslinger » Wed Aug 05, 2015 7:08 pm

if you need a hand sing out, last time i replaced a cv boot i ended up damaging the splines on the axle, so what i tend to do now is take the shaft out and take the shaft to cv specialists in sockburn and get them to chuck a new boot at it. means my hands dont get covered in grease as much and they also have a silicone boot which is alot more flexible and doesnt dry out and crack. it is a little more to pay for one but its now 4 years old and still going strong. blackwells do the seals and from memory are not to badly priced. the needle bearings i think came from saeco wilson or wilson brothers. they were not to bad from memoryto replace but it was a couple years ago now. the inner cv joints sit in a cup which is just full of grease so when you reassemble just make sure there is grease in there, cv specialists sell the bags of grease and also the wire straps to do them back up. make sure you do the straps up as tight as poss to keep the grease in and the crap out
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Re: Torn cv boot

Postby tertle » Thu Aug 06, 2015 10:19 am

Yeah this is a little more than I expected I've held the CV on the spline and held the axle horizontal and first with a soft hammer gentle encouraged the outer housing, it just won't come off..... So phase two.... The cv comes out???
tertle
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1990 Isuzu Trooper LWB 5 speed Manual......... Rebuilt top end, replaced all the seals, hoses and belts, 32" Bridgestone duellers MT, LSD, snorkel, 2" shackle lift, ball joint flip and tortion lift, manual hubs, breather tubes all round, tinted, UHF CB, about to put in dual battery,

Re: Torn cv boot

Postby geeves » Thu Aug 06, 2015 11:11 am

Your first picture shows the wide side of the outer joint into the stub axle. At the other end of the shaft undu the strap at the wide end again and reach into the housing You will feel a wire spring clip This retains the cv in the housing and needs to come out. Use your fingers to find the end of the clip and a small screwdriver to flick it out. This is one of those jobs where rubber gloves are good.
Re the liquid
If this came out of the cv boot its water and shouldnt be there. If you ignored my method above and tried to do it by the book you would of undone the 4 bolts that hold the outer housing to the diff and it will be diff oil. This housing is also the mount for the diff to the chassis by to more bolts and you will need a jack under the diff. Everything should just slide apart. diff oil is filled via the fill bung on the diff.
As for the silicon boots I tried one once put a stick through it first time out never again
Sanding your knuckles before starting work can help. That way you cant skin them
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Re: Torn cv boot

Postby geeves » Thu Aug 06, 2015 11:14 am

Next cv boot I do I will photograph as I go unless someone else does it first. It really is only a 3 on the Isuzu scale of hardness
Sanding your knuckles before starting work can help. That way you cant skin them
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Re: Torn cv boot

Postby stardog » Thu Aug 06, 2015 12:50 pm

I'm doing the ones on the wizard soon noticed their are split and a bit of grease coming out just waiting to get a front diff housing with out the soft on it and in goes the lokka and manual hubs at the same time and new ball joints.
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Re: Torn cv boot

Postby tertle » Thu Aug 06, 2015 4:48 pm

What a great learning experience that was, the next one will be owwww so much easier, the hardest part was getting the ball joint off the spline, and then getting it back on with the circlip. But at this stage it's all together and seems to work ;)
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1990 Isuzu Trooper LWB 5 speed Manual......... Rebuilt top end, replaced all the seals, hoses and belts, 32" Bridgestone duellers MT, LSD, snorkel, 2" shackle lift, ball joint flip and tortion lift, manual hubs, breather tubes all round, tinted, UHF CB, about to put in dual battery,

Re: Torn cv boot

Postby geeves » Thu Aug 06, 2015 5:36 pm

A pair of circlip pliers helps heaps. If you have the circlip with no holes and one tapered edge make a point of getting some spares for next time with 2 holes. Much easier
Sanding your knuckles before starting work can help. That way you cant skin them
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Re: Torn cv boot

Postby Kennet » Sat Aug 08, 2015 3:45 am

Hello, I have a Opel Campo (Isuzu parts) where I try to change the CV joint, but I don´t find any circlip. I also got the new parts but even though I don´t understand what is locking the axle from the joint. pls see picture. Can someone tell me if there is a circlip somewhere or how I loose it. There is no circlip at the axle, neigther at the outer dia 82, where I have seen pictures on other vehicles. Regards
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Re: Torn cv boot

Postby isuzurob » Sat Aug 08, 2015 7:07 am

it is inside the cv joint on the end of the axle, by hitting the cv its meant to come off the axle, i have only ever had 1 come off, smashed 1 axle and have broken a cv trying to hit them off
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