Rattling Sound in all gears but 4th

[isuzurob]

yea they can be hard to get out, i have a input shaft i cut off a gearbox fill hole with gease and hit the input shaft in, the grease pushes the bearing out, rear main, use a sharpe point screw driver hit it into the face of the seal and them screw a small self tapper into the hole then pull on the screw with some pillers, make sure you put the hole in the middle so you dont scratch the crankshaft or the outer casing

[damo667]

Sweet I'll give that a go now on the seal

Thats a good idea for the bearing I used a bolt that fit in there quite snug..
I watched a Youtube video of a guy using wet paper instead of grease seemed to work ok..

[damo667]

I've got the box back in position.. it only fell off the jack twice and landed on me
I had a two day break and it slide straight in..

I dont suppose anyone has an exploded diagram of the bolts to bolt the gearbox back onto the block?
Its been a couple of months since I took it off and theres a few different sizes and lengths

[isuzurob]

two longer 17mm bolts have the nuts on the and hold starter in, 2 shorter 17mm bolts hold the slave cylinder to the gear box, all 14mm bolts 3 at the top 2 at the bottom are the same it doesnt matter, and 14mm nut goes on stud behind oil cooler, and one short 17mm bolt on the drivers side, thats from memory

[damo667]

Thats pretty much what I ended up with.
The longer bolts were for the slave though.
The only bolt I wasn't sure of was this 14mm but putting it together there is an exhaust bracket that bolts on there that explains the length..

bolt.JPG

I've got her all together but she wont rev up properly.
She revs up to 1500 - 2000 and then the revs die off and if I give her too much then she stalls.

Could something I've done fitting the box have caused this? It seems to go together ok..
I cant think of anything i've disconnected that I havn't reconnected!!

Seems to go into gear ok and clutch appears to work, Air filter seems fine, I did an oil service whilst putting her together, I took a section of exhaust out, so maybe that wont be sealed properly till she gets hot,
The only other thing of note is she's been sitting there on just above empty for over 2 months?

Got me baffled??

Any ideas?
Cheers in advance..

[damo667]

I had her going again today still got me baffled its acting like its starving of fuel, I just changed the fuel filter and no difference.. I've cracked 2 of the injectors, fuel came out of both, one made it run worst the other made it stall.
If I knew it was definitely fuel I would take it for a tow in gear to bleed the fuel through like I've had to before after a filter change..

I'm just reluctant if its something to do with the clutch or box as it may do more harm..

Might take it back off and have a look just to be sure..

[isuzurob]

doesnt sound like anything is the gearbox is wrong, as long as you didnt jam the wiring loom behind engine in the bellhousing when you put the gearbox on the engine, can only be fuel or air, is the flat in the dump pipe still connected?

[damo667]

happy new year Rob
Dont think the loom is jammed, the gearbox is snug I cant feel up there to check,
There is a wiring bracket that I didn't attach I've found by the starter, it is supposed to be held on by the next bolt up from the starter by the looks.
Thats not an earth by any chance??

What do you mean by the "flat" on the Dump pipe? do you mean the next section of pipe? it is all connected now.

The truck wont start now so I'm going to pressurise the tank and blow some diesel up through the line to make sure theres no blockage/air bubble..

[turnturn]

I think that Rob is suggesting that you check that the flap in the exhaust side of the QWS is not obstructing the exhaust. From personal experience I can say that this does happen and does make your engine sluggish and not rev.

Also regarding it not starting. Have you checked for voltage (at least 9v from memory) to the fuel shut off solenoid on the Injector Pump. I recently bought a Mu that the owner could not get going after a clutch replacement. They had jammed the wiring loom, that passes over the back of the engine, between the bell housing and the block pinching the wiring and creating a short circuit/earth in the wiring.

[damo667]

Hi Turnturn
I've just checked and I've got 11.9v on the solenoid with ignition on..

I asked the exhaust guy to remove that butterfly valve when he did the muffler/tailpipe a few years, (he suggested it).
I have never checked that it was removed I'll look into it now..

[damo667]

I dont think the warm up has been removed, we must have just talked about it
Theres a job for the list.. is it an easy job?

Is this it in the picture?

QWS.JPG

It is very stiff to actuate with the spring mechanism next to it, is it open or closed with the spring decompressed (pictured)

Cheers

[turnturn]

It is in the closed position when the vacuum diaphragm is activated...sorry but I cant remember which way this is. Pretty easy to work out from memory.

I just removed the whole vacuum actuator assembly and wired the butterfly valve in the open position the first time I ever played with this item.

Removing the butterfly would be difficult, if not impossible, with the exhaust manifold still bolted to the car. I have since had my exhaust manifold off and removed it completely.

[damo667]

I didn't put the exhaust on all that well as the flexible joint is knackerd.
When its off again I'll remove the bend and have a proper look.. see if I can prize it out..
I guess i'll have to tap and seal some bolts back in to block the holes off..

The truck is runnning a mixture of compressed air in the tank to get it going and a highspeed tow down the road in second got it all bled through
It seem to be running sweet no clunking or grinding or vibrations

The Gearstick has more play then the last one, are those pins in top of box replaceable do you know? also the boot on the stick is knackerd I'm not sure how you would go about replacing it

gearstick.JPG

[turnturn]

Can you just use your old gear lever?

Also there is a post on here somewhere about replacing the polymer bush on the gear lever.

When you do your "high speed tow down the road in second gear" is the ignition key on or off? If off, wouldn't that mean that the fuel shut off solenoid was closed and fuel would not flow through the injector pump head/lines/injectors?

[damo667]

Yeah I presume so , I had the ignition on, I had to do a similar thing a few years ago when I replaced that pump solenoid I couldn't bleed the line by hand..

I'll have a look for that post.. the gear lever pictured is my old one, the replacement box was missing that boot altogether

I was just in Holden and he reckons cant get boot would prob have to replace whole thing.. I might have a look at fudging something together.. dont want water getting in that way especially as I've finally extended the box breather when I had the box off...

A quick question on oil.. What do you use?
I used this oil in the new box as it was cheap and I'm going to replace it after few hundred k's

oil.JPG

I've got this in the garage but it has hypoids in it so not keen to use.

gear oil.JPG

5w/30 engine oil is the ideal is it?
I'l look out for some cheap stuff..

[isuzurob]

They are a basic gearbox, ive run 5w/30, 15w/40, 75w90 GL4, ATF DX3 and currently have 75w85 high pressure gear oil, all work, good you got it going and can use it

[damo667]

Ok I wont worry too much but I'll try 5w 30 next time i buy some..
200 k's with next box seems to run sweet, good to have it back up and running
changed the filters, diff oils, new door hinge, new windscreen washer pump new diff/gearbox breathers all it need now is new front section of exhaust and she'll be like brand new..

I'll try and get that Warm Up butterfly out first..