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Splitting top and bottom ball joints rodeo

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Splitting top and bottom ball joints rodeo

Postby magicdeo » Sun Jan 10, 2016 7:58 pm

Gday all, I have just finished replacing the top and bottom ball joints on my 97 tf rodeo 4wd. I had a lot of problem splitting both ball joints. I know how to split ball joints with a bar and hammer but this time, no good. I used a ball joint fork and finally got it after a couple of hours trying. I don't know whether the problem was old tight ball joints or just a hard design to split. I'm worried next time I replace a cv or cv boot I will ruin the ball joint boots in the process. How does everyone split them, special tool shown in manual? Other Ball joint splitter tool? Or were mine just old and tight?
Cheers
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Re: Splitting top and bottom ball joints rodeo

Postby geeves » Mon Jan 11, 2016 9:53 am

They can be very tight. I usualy use a slitter that looks like a g clamp but also have a scissor type and these always work except once . I dont like the fork type as they nearly always split the boot and in the case of the joint the others failed on also broke the ball retainer.
There is a lot of meat in the casting so a big hit is required to release with the hammer method but it can be done. Use lots of swear words while you swing and lots more if you miss. A freind used to use a 2 pound hammer with a 2 foot long handle
Sanding your knuckles before starting work can help. That way you cant skin them
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Re: Splitting top and bottom ball joints rodeo

Postby turnturn » Mon Jan 11, 2016 2:33 pm

I nearly always ruin the boot when I do them...
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Re: Splitting top and bottom ball joints rodeo

Postby geeves » Mon Jan 11, 2016 3:47 pm

Always give them a wack first (4 or 5 as the first is never hard enough) (once missed and moved the axle stand glad I always put the tyre underneath the car) I have broken a leg of a g clamp style one and have found the one made by Ampro that looks like a tool makers clamp pretty good although I had to gring a taper on the tip of the jaw to prevent it tearing the boot. The Ampro doesnt fit the bottom joint but does all the rest. The G clamp one I use for this is sold at bnt as a pitman arm puller
Sanding your knuckles before starting work can help. That way you cant skin them
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Re: Splitting top and bottom ball joints rodeo

Postby magicdeo » Mon Jan 11, 2016 4:24 pm

Cheers fellas might have to invest in some pullers
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Re: Splitting top and bottom ball joints rodeo

Postby stardog » Mon Jan 11, 2016 6:03 pm

I remember when I done my mu complete front end rebuild what dramas I had with ball joints I even broke 1 of the claw type separators.
The best 1 I have found that works is a Toledo branded 1 from super cheap auto doesn't wreck the rubber boots.
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Re: Splitting top and bottom ball joints rodeo

Postby geeves » Mon Jan 11, 2016 6:55 pm

Thats my favorite although a different brand. I did break the first one I had though. The pin holding the 2 parts together is a shear pin so when it broke I replaced it with a grade 8.8 bolt. That was fine until I had a stubborn joint which saw me put a breaker bar on the bolt. Stripped the thread in the casting.
Best trick with these pullers is to wind them up quite tight then either hit the bolt head or the casting around the joint hard with a hammer. 96 times out of a 100 it loosens. Leaving the nut on the joint loose prevents catastrophic release and with the g clamp type prevents the bolt dislodging but a warning is that it is wise to loosen the nut 3 or 4 turns. If you loosen less than this you can dislodge the joint and not notice.
A man learns from his mistakes A wise man learns from others mistakes A teacher shares his mistakes for the wise to learn from
Sanding your knuckles before starting work can help. That way you cant skin them
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Re: Splitting top and bottom ball joints rodeo

Postby turnturn » Mon Jan 11, 2016 11:09 pm

My separator is pretty similar to the one pictured above. I had to grind down the fork section a bit though to get it to fit properly behind the stub axle assembly.

I also have one that looks like a big tuning fork that can also be handy.
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Re: Splitting top and bottom ball joints rodeo

Postby magicdeo » Tue Jan 12, 2016 7:38 am

I have one similar but it was too small. I will have to buy The bigger one
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Re: Splitting top and bottom ball joints rodeo

Postby stardog » Thu Jan 14, 2016 4:47 pm

The tuning fork 1 I had broke when doing them on it that's why I changed to the type I put the photo up on the site works brilliant and doesn't wreck the rubber boots.
Just put it on do the bolt up tight whack with a hammer and thy just pop out.
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Re: Splitting top and bottom ball joints rodeo

Postby isuzurob » Thu Jan 14, 2016 5:59 pm

I have worked on hundreds and hundreds of isuzus never had any issue, you guys need bigger hammers and hit it harder, 2 wacks and there off every time
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Re: Splitting top and bottom ball joints rodeo

Postby stardog » Thu Jan 14, 2016 6:59 pm

I used a 14lb sledge hammer on them before with the tuning fork type splitter that's what broke it this newer one i use 3lb hammer two whacks and it works .
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Re: Splitting top and bottom ball joints rodeo

Postby zacco » Mon Feb 20, 2017 1:13 pm

Set it up so you are using the torsion bar to preload the joint while youre flogging it.
1989 2wd rodeo4ze1 soon to be 2.8 T/d auto,manual whatever
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Re: Splitting top and bottom ball joints rodeo

Postby geeves » Mon Feb 20, 2017 3:16 pm

I always use a splitter Makes life so much less complicated but Ive seen it done with a hammer. A friend who is an X member here always said first time every time. You hit the casting around the taper. He used a 2 pound ball peen hammer head on a 800mm long handle. Not a tool you want to meet on a dark night
Sanding your knuckles before starting work can help. That way you cant skin them
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