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2.8 Mu HAND BRAKE

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2.8 Mu HAND BRAKE

Postby tonkamu » Thu Jan 25, 2018 12:54 pm

I always get pulled up for my hand brake on WOF. I know that they are not a good system and replacing them with shoe version is the way to go. But that costs money and a lot of time or a lot of money and not much time I don't have much of either.

I just put new rotor/pads on the failed side (drivers rear), adjusted piston to get rid of play adjusted cable as tight as I can before passenger side grabs.

WOF people still not happy. Now they failed me on my winch bar (another story :evil: :evil: :evil: basically they WOF guy is a prick.. I came out asking if "was that my diff making that sound" the sound of an exploding differential.. when he tried having one side of the car on the roller machine testing one wheel which won't work as I have an LOKKA... I lost my cool when he started talking about permanent locked diff is illegal) Lucky for me everything still works, pretty strong things.

Anyway.. my hand brake is only at 67% Drivers side and other side is 120% its a big improvement from 6% / 120%.

I'm wondering what else can I adjust on the bad side to improve it, can't see any other adjustments.
tonkamu
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Re: 2.8 Mu HAND BRAKE

Postby geeves » Thu Jan 25, 2018 1:09 pm

Testing handbrakes on a rolling road is fun when the car in question is a landrover or nissan with handbrake on the driveshaft. Almost as much fun as when the try a handbrake stop.
When I had the bighorn I would lightly sand the discks every 2 wofs in a pattern from center to outside which helped a little. I also lubed the caliper slides every wof. If the caliper is binding the handbrake aint going to work. Also I dont know what tyres you are running Try and borrow some in a standard size.
Only other suggestion is stay away from LTNZ testing stations. They are excellent for standard cars but dont have a clue about mods. A friend of my father in law was always failed on wheel bearings in a Austin Healy. They are a ball bearing that needs an amount of play to work correctly. He ended up driveing the LTSA adjusting the bearing till the wheels started to grab go through wof then readjust before driving home
Sanding your knuckles before starting work can help. That way you cant skin them
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Re: 2.8 Mu HAND BRAKE

Postby tonkamu » Thu Jan 25, 2018 1:25 pm

I had the piston out it slides out easy, adjustment screw works perfectly, screwed the piston right out. The removable pin glide is quite pitted, I greased both glides up. I use my 31" tyres for WOF, I'm sure that prick would of failed me for 33" to!

Do I have to go back to the same WOF station, theres normally Indians there who are friendly and let them minor things go, but my re-check there was a white guy who likes to recite how he's the most powerful man in my car universe to me ( I am a wof certfier blah blah if there was an investigation if you hit someone with your winch bar it would come back to me blah blah)(when I was coming off the rollers the machine was showing me different numbers do you have a permanent locked diff? blah blah) something like that I zoned out when people start talking muppet.
tonkamu
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Posts: 156
Joined: Sun Jan 01, 2017 7:23 am
Age: 36
Country: NZ
City: Auckland
Vehicle: 2.8 Mu 1991 All Black. MODS - Rear Lifted 2.5" Lovells Leafs / Rear Auto Locker / LSD in front / 33x12.5x15 MT Achilles / 9500 RUNVA w plug n kills switch inside cab / EGT, Voltage, Turbo timer, Boost gauge / 20 PSI VF10 Turbo with VF10 exhaust housing 2.5" downpipe with merged 2" wastegate pipe to full 2.5" straight pipe / GFB Boost Tap / Maxed fuel with grinded down cable stop / Adjusted Boost Compensator / 3.1 Oil Cooler / Intercooled / 3" Custom intake to sealed K&N airbox & filter to Snorkel / Catch Can / Xtreme Outback HD clutch / 80 amp alt / RockfordFosgate 300rms AMP w 2X Rockford Power 6x9's BT HDeck / all EGR, QWS, AC pump deleted.

Re: 2.8 Mu HAND BRAKE

Postby geeves » Thu Jan 25, 2018 2:07 pm

other thing to check is the hand brake cables. They must be completely free in the sleeves and its wise to lubricate the other linkages as well. On mine I found water and crud blocking the travel in the U shape where iit turns up into the wheel. I hung then in the garage and worked them back and forwards while pouring kerosene in then once free redid with engine oil. I then went to pickapart and cut 2 nissan Sunny clutch cables to get the rubber boots to replace the originals. (clutch cable at picapart $30 rubber boot $2)
Bull bars on a 91 only have to meet exterior impact rules as applied in 91. If your bar is commercial for that vehicle he cant touch it. They are tested for pedestrian safety. If its home made then as long as it doesnt unduly increase risk to pedestrians compared to being hit by a 1800kg 4wd then it has to pass. If its bolted to factory mounts thats all but he could get fussy about any welded mounts which technically are reason to trigger a trip to a low volume certifier. I had that problem with my 89 bighorn. Bumper made of 70x40 rhs no issue, 2 cigarette packet sized braces welded to the chassis extensions for the bumper sent to lvta. Certifier gave me an option grind to plates off or $400 process. I chose certification which was only paperwork and a first born.
You should be able to go to a different garage but it would be wise to tell them VTNZ failed it because they dont know what they are talking about on issue x Y Z etc but it still sounds like more work required on the handbrake
Sanding your knuckles before starting work can help. That way you cant skin them
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Re: 2.8 Mu HAND BRAKE

Postby tonkamu » Thu Jan 25, 2018 8:03 pm

Thanks Geeves you pointed me in the right direction I found the potential issue, a rusty seized cable. No hope trying to crc it, will replace.

And here is my little winch bar that failed its WOF, and yeah interesting about old cars, he threatened to make me go to LVVC.

The concept of low volume vehicles and hence certification for such vehicles was not initiated until after 1991. A motor vehicle last modified before 1 January 1992 does not have to comply with the Low Volume Vehicle Code, provided the vehicle has been continuously registered in New Zealand. It must, however, comply with the general safety requirements in 2.2.

bullbar.jpg
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tonkamu
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Posts: 156
Joined: Sun Jan 01, 2017 7:23 am
Age: 36
Country: NZ
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Vehicle: 2.8 Mu 1991 All Black. MODS - Rear Lifted 2.5" Lovells Leafs / Rear Auto Locker / LSD in front / 33x12.5x15 MT Achilles / 9500 RUNVA w plug n kills switch inside cab / EGT, Voltage, Turbo timer, Boost gauge / 20 PSI VF10 Turbo with VF10 exhaust housing 2.5" downpipe with merged 2" wastegate pipe to full 2.5" straight pipe / GFB Boost Tap / Maxed fuel with grinded down cable stop / Adjusted Boost Compensator / 3.1 Oil Cooler / Intercooled / 3" Custom intake to sealed K&N airbox & filter to Snorkel / Catch Can / Xtreme Outback HD clutch / 80 amp alt / RockfordFosgate 300rms AMP w 2X Rockford Power 6x9's BT HDeck / all EGR, QWS, AC pump deleted.

Re: 2.8 Mu HAND BRAKE

Postby geeves » Fri Jan 26, 2018 4:49 am

That bar does look nicely made but does have a few problems. A certifier would fail it. They are fixable though. Everything facing forwards must be 50mm diameter or bigger. They wont worry about the 40mm tube but the sharp edges on the winch plate should be reduced and those lamp mount placed behind the bar. They could get picky about the mounting plates as well. Also putting a cover over the winch removes hand traps. Fix these and it should pass.
To get the wof tomorrow just put the factory bumper back on for the day
Sanding your knuckles before starting work can help. That way you cant skin them
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Re: 2.8 Mu HAND BRAKE

Postby DonaldNZ » Thu May 02, 2019 9:31 pm

If a tester was getting too tricky and puts a locker half onto a rolling road id suggest to him by his name and business before he starts he's doing a non standard test and as a result liable for any damage incurred, insist he makes his employer aware of the risk and record the conversation 0n your phone.

I've had clients reimbursed for my time by a wof shop & vtnz when they have failed a car that is legit and someones doing the testing was having a bad day, without going to the disputes tribuanal. Ive found my local vtnz very helpful to deal with.
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Re: 2.8 Mu HAND BRAKE

Postby geeves » Fri May 03, 2019 5:17 am

both auto and manual locker in unlocked should pass that test. Your not allowed a permanantly locked diff on the road and you dont want one unless you dont mind replacing lots of tyres. Boy racers weld diffs but they dont care if the car cant corner
Sanding your knuckles before starting work can help. That way you cant skin them
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geeves
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Re: 2.8 Mu HAND BRAKE

Postby tonkamu » Fri May 03, 2019 4:33 pm

The rolling road made the auto locker ratchet turn really fast, not sure if that damages it, it was like a machine gun going off. at the time I was just angry and didn't really think if it would be damaged by that. he had the nerve to defend and accuse me of a permanent locked diff. still angry thinking about that twat.
tonkamu
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Posts: 156
Joined: Sun Jan 01, 2017 7:23 am
Age: 36
Country: NZ
City: Auckland
Vehicle: 2.8 Mu 1991 All Black. MODS - Rear Lifted 2.5" Lovells Leafs / Rear Auto Locker / LSD in front / 33x12.5x15 MT Achilles / 9500 RUNVA w plug n kills switch inside cab / EGT, Voltage, Turbo timer, Boost gauge / 20 PSI VF10 Turbo with VF10 exhaust housing 2.5" downpipe with merged 2" wastegate pipe to full 2.5" straight pipe / GFB Boost Tap / Maxed fuel with grinded down cable stop / Adjusted Boost Compensator / 3.1 Oil Cooler / Intercooled / 3" Custom intake to sealed K&N airbox & filter to Snorkel / Catch Can / Xtreme Outback HD clutch / 80 amp alt / RockfordFosgate 300rms AMP w 2X Rockford Power 6x9's BT HDeck / all EGR, QWS, AC pump deleted.

Re: 2.8 Mu HAND BRAKE

Postby geeves » Fri May 03, 2019 5:24 pm

The easy test for the auto locker is to jack up one wheel and it will turn. Welded diff wont. Remember to loan him your rustiest jack and a 4 inch crescent to turn it.
I had a run in with a VTNZ with a work car once. It had a cge in so the rear seat couldnt be used but the seatbelts were still there. He was going to fail it because he couldnt test the rear seatbelts. I offered to take the cage out on the spot and asked if he had any torqs sockets as that was what the cage was fastened with. In the meantime I was blocking his aisle and the que out to the street. At that point he saw it my way and passed it but demanded we take the cage out before next time. We only went there because the regular garage couldnt book it in in time. They never had a problem with the cage
Sanding your knuckles before starting work can help. That way you cant skin them
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geeves
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