Front disc rotors, stuck, help!!?

[rcolijn]

HI all,

I have totally buggered my front discs, was way up the alps when the sound started appearing, turned out the blocks were warn out, still had a 1000 k to go, aough. Its a Isuzu Mu 1993 2.8 TD btw. Anyways, I want to machine or replace them discs but am stuck, can't get them off, here is what I got to:

1) removed wheel
2) removed brake calipers
3) removed blocks, one was down to metal
4) removed the Aisin hub (6 outer boltes, 6 inner allan keys, 3 little philips screws)
5) removed the 6 bolts holding the disc down

I dont know how to proceed from here (where to pull, push,lever etc). The disc is loose but I dont have a clue how to proceed from here getting the hubs off, or more importantly getting the discs off

Anyone tips????

Photos attached of the last stage till now.

Thanks from a mechanic wannabee lol.

[Yarno]

The plate that you took the three screws out of will slide out (it's a locking plate), then you'll see the nut which you unscrew to loosen the bearings and the hub should then come off.

[turnturn]

Also adding to what Yarno has already said when you come to slide the rotating assembly (dic rotor, hub, bearings and seal) off they can be a wee bit stubborn as you are sliding two bearing inner races off you stub axle and a seal off a slightly larger diameter sealing journal.
If you are getting the discs machined you probably didn't need to remove the 6 larger bolts holding the disc on to the hub. This can probably be machined as an assembled unit. The minimum the disc can be machined down to is cast into the disc somewhere.
You may even want to re-bolt the disc to the hub to remove the hub from the stub axle.

[rcolijn]

Duh, that was soo simple it was not funny any more lol. They are now both off, 10 minutes work!!!! You guys rock, thanks soo much!

So now I am left with a mistery, only one of the three pads was completely worn , as in metal, I'll post a picture later. Also only one side of the discs was totally worn, and the other three looked fairly unworn. Does that mean that the pistons in the brake calipers of the other 3 dont work?

If so, do I have to replace both discs, or can I get away with only replacing the one which was terribly worn?
Also, are these all Rodeo TF parts?
And, whilst there would it be usefull to replace the wheel bearings (no play if I rock the wheel)?

Sorry to ask soo many questions, I am just learning mechanics and am lovin it, the MU rocks!!!

If one of you are ever near Gunning NSW come and grab a beer, or two!!!

Ronald

[Yarno]

The one with the worn out pad will probably have a seized slide . Not sure what will be wrong with it but might be rust and may need replacing or regreasing.

For discs and pads you need to ask for 91 Jackaroo 2.8TD ones (I think TF would be the same but the rear is obviously different), and I would replace both discs if one is stuffed, you want both the fronts to be equal for stopping straight.

Just repack bearings with new HTB (High temp bearing) grease.

[geeves]

Ive replaced one disc only in the past.If its a rough hack this will be ok but it takes a long time for the pads to bed in properly and the brakes will pull to one side till they do. Even more so if you use hard pads like the bendix 4x4.
If your doing 1000km journeys I would recomend both. After market new ones are not expensive

[rcolijn]

Excellent, thanks, I think I found a set on ebay: http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll ... Track=true which might work, I allready bought Bendix pads so I think I'll replace them both.

I'll also check the working of the worn out one's caliper for proper operation.

Whilst there I might as well replace the brake fluids too, wonder when they were last done....

Thanks very much guys!

[geeves]

All the good books say replace brake fluid every 3 years. Noone does