mullet's 89 bighorn 2.8ITD manual LWB

[scruff123]

My Mu (4JB1) makes boost without load.. will go up to 10-11PSI in neutral if I rev it. Max boost for the Mu is 12PSI.

same with my 4jg2 bighorn

[gomulletgo]

Thanks guys, I hooked it up (temporarily) again and took it for a burl. It was making close to 12psi when the engine was cold and Iz giving it the boot

I've started my EGR blank/removal.

I've got the blank on the intake and the blank/EGT sender mount on the exhaust. I'll include some pics and questions, then maybe the EGR removal thread can be updated with some more pics and easy to follow instructions

The 1st pic is of the EGR blank on the intake side, I hate hacksaws.

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The 2nd pic is of the two vac hoses I had to disconnect to remove the EGR stuff that I unbolted from the intake.

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The 3rd pic is of the fuel pump, can I take a hose from the "T" connector to a boost guage? The high vac pipe goes to the intercooler and I've been told needs to stay. Can the lower vac pipe be blocked off?

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The 4th pic is of the intercooler above the turbo, the pipe to the fuel pump needs to stay I've been told. Can the other vac pipe in the pic be blocked off? What is that thing it's attached to? What does it do?

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The 5th pic is of the dipstick shroud mount and god knows what! Is the dipstick shroud mount that is broken mild steel? Easy to weld? Do I need to replace the seal where the dipstick shroud goes into the sump if I pull the dipstick shroud thing out to repair the broken mount? What is that thing in the pic that the vac hose goes to? What does it do? Can the vac hose be blocked off here?

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Last but not least as far as I can see the only hose I haven't mentioned is the one to the alternator, does this get blocked?

Thanks in advance I hope my pics and questions are easy enough to make sense of

[geeves]

I dont know what that last thing is either. The dipstick tube has an oring on the bottom and is at the full line in the sump so it will only leak if your overfull or driving without the stick in place. Mines been broken for 14 years. If you have done everything above the only things the vac from the alternator is feeding is the brakes and aircon fast idle. You must have the brake line functional so either run a single line to the fast idle or block the small line completely

[Captcol]

from what I can see the fast idle is the bottom pipe in picture 3

[gomulletgo]

Hi guys,

Thanks for all the help, I haven't got rid of all my EGR stuff yet, been doing other things and I'm still a bit hazey on the details.

I have put my exhaust gas temperature guage and boost guage in

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I'm concerned about the amount of oil in the clear plastic tubing that goes between the intercooler and the boost guage though, Could oil being forced into my boost guage cause it damage?

When under load it boosts between just over 10psi and dead on 11psi depending on how it's feeling on the day.

I would like to know what everyone thinks is the temp I should set my EGT guage alarm to go at. A diesel mechanic mate said to never let the temp get over 700C. The most I've seen it up to is 600C so at the moment I've got the alarm set for 650C.

I saw on someone's thread that they removed the butterfly in the intake pipe before the intercooler and put a couple of screw head bolts and rubber washers in it to seal it up. Anyone remember where that thread is? Anyway, Iz thinking about doing that too, then I saw a 3.1ITD intercooler I have here and it doesn't have any of that vac operated stuff, just a nice simple pipe. So I swapped it over and just unplugged the vac hose. Did I do the right thing? What is the purpose of that vac stuff? When does it close the butterfly and why?

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Also I don't like the amount of oil blowing through the intake stuff, intercooler, turbo etc. So I'm thinking about getting an oil catch can. I may buy one of the $80-90 ones on trademe, or build my own. Anyone know of good ones for sale for less than $80?

[pig75]

Edited picture size Please keep the file size under 200kb

[gomulletgo]

Sorry mate, I hope they weren't too far over. I'm using the software "image shrink" and shrinking all photos to 30 percent. That normally gets them about right, but I haven't been checking the size of each image before posting. I'm on dial up so I'm not a fan of massive photos either. Cheers

[lewis]

I believe the vaccum operated butterfly valve thing is to restrict flow to make the engine warm up quicker if you are in really cold conditions - that funny button on the dash.
Im also looking for that post someone did on blocking theirs with the screws and rubber washers as mine leaks, and mines not the intercooled model. If anyone finds it please post a link

[electrifying]

I am thinking of doing the same thing too, as my one rattles a fair bit.

Think this is the one you were looking for:
http://www.clubisuzu.com/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=1423&hilit=turbo+gauge
(haven't done a link-thing before, so hope it is correct).

It is the 4th photo down, 1st page, by 'steveNZ', under 'DIY boost controller /boost gauge'
Hope this helps .

[gomulletgo]

Thanks for that lewis and electrifying The truck still seems to be running fine so I'm happy btw everyone I bought my oil catch can today also getting a wof the other day and my mechanic mate spins the wheels and tells me I already have a LSD in my truck!!! how we missed it when we checked for tyres I do not know, but I'm wrapped one is there. Now to shim it up and run the correct oil in it. Btw there is no "G80" on the option code on the firewall so I'm guessing the LSD wasn't in it from factory.

[lewis]

I did the screws/rubber washers mod today on my intake, slightly different though as the only rubber I had was inner tube and I didnt trust it in the air intake path, so my airtight (hopefully) seal is on the outside with the rubber and thin aluminium plate under the nuts.

I have also unplugged the crankcase breather and have it venting into the chassis, and blocked up the hole in the air intake. This was free as opposed to buying a catch can and easy and ensure no dirty fumes get fed into the air intake whatsoever. If it fails wof ill just plug it back in. If i end up driving through really deep rivers then ill consider modifying it to vent somewhere higher. There is a LOT of gas coming out of it when the engine is hot though so I can see how the air intake got so oily.

Thats cool you have an LSD, mine didnt have G80 and it definitely didnt have one lol.

Also in your picture that has "mild steel easy to weld" on it, I think the vacuum operated thing next to that does the exhaust butterfly valve as a cable seems to go from that to the exhaust just below the turbo. So unless you use the fast warm up system you wont be needed that vac hose

[gomulletgo]

Interesting anti rust idea with your chassis oil breather idea I like it. I will probably be going through deep water, I'm planning for a snorkel and the oil catch can was pretty cheap compared to others I have seen. Regarding the butterfly valve in the exhaust linked by a cable over the other side of the block to that vacuum thing, yes after posting I traced the cable and realised it was something that will go when I replace the exhaust with a 2.5 or 3 inch exhaust. I haven't got around to removing all un-needed vac hoses yet. I guess I was lucky I didn't have to blank off the intake butterfly thing and just mounted a blank pipe on. I wonder how many are out there with the plain pipe on them.

[gomulletgo]

UPDATE:

I took the grill off to remove a headlight to dry the water out of it. While I was there I removed all of the plastic air intake between the battery and air filter box, I've noticed since then that I've hit 15psi, it's never gone that high before. It must've been a pretty restrictive intake. I plan to add a snorkel, that's why I removed all the air intake before the filter housing. The oil catch can I purchased really annoyed me, always leaking. So I'll make my own.

[gomulletgo]

UPDATE:

It's now hit 16psi repeatedly, it's never gone that high before. I have no idea why it can get to 16psi now.

I made my own oil catch can, bit of a shocker, tried to make it out of recycled stuff, I really shouldn't have. Anyway it's in again and didn't appear to leak anymore. Rear diff is still a problem, see diff thread - http://www.clubisuzu.com/viewtopic.php?f=25&t=2859

EDIT: In the future I'd like to add more traction, I've got alot of spare parts, so I'm thinking about welding a front diff, I've noticed alot of people saying welded front affects the shingle road or highway driving. I run Aisin manual hubs so is this poor driveability only relevant if my front hubs are locked? I like the idea of upping the traction each time I lock another manual hub. Obviously I'd only put it in 4wd and lock one or both hubs when the terrain requires it.

[geeves]

welded diffs on the front are disconnected by the free wheel hubs. Still will affect steering off road with hubs locked

[gomulletgo]

welded diffs on the front are disconnected by the free wheel hubs. Still will affect steering off road with hubs locked

That makes sense to me. I'd only lock the hub/hubs as they were required for really low traction areas, mud, sand, loose shingle river crossings etc. I'm guessing that if you lock just one hub then steering is negatively affected a bit and then when you lock the other hub steering is negatively affected even more. Is that correct?

[geeves]

A welded front diff will always try and go straight ahead unless it has enough traction for the steering to overcome the fact that both wheels are traveling at the same speed but must travel at different speeds to turn. Rock crawlers in USA often use welded diffs and dont seem to have trouble with breakages but I would be looking for a proper locker ie manual air locker or auto locker.
My understanding of auto lockers is that rather than actualy locking they transmit most torque to the slowest wheel rather than the fastest wheel in a normal diff. After reading all the wiki pages on the things Im sure black magic is involved.

[isuzurob]

welded are fine have run one in my truck in the front, mate run them in there terranos, pajeros, safari still, steering is heavy but managable, just leave one hub out like you said if to heavy, air locker does the same thing as welding it when engaged, lokka or detroit lockers work the same but when the drive though the pinion is less than the resistance at the wheel it will unlock

[geeves]

at last a description of how a auto locker works that is understandable and doesnt involve chanting at a fire.
Every other description probably says the same thing but takes a whole novel to do so.

[gomulletgo]

UPDATE: Power Steering box leaking at the input shaft but at least I've got some new tyres and rims

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