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Me MU

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Me MU

Postby NateDog » Sat Aug 13, 2011 11:09 pm

I bought this Isuzu MU Stock and have been building it up myself over the last few years. My first few mods were, snorkel and manual locking hubs (autos failed after the first few trips). I made a wooden rear draw and ran breathers for diffs, G/box and transfer case to the engine bay, as im always playing in the water. Ball joint flip and wound up the front torsion bars 2 inches + wheel alignment. Then a 2 inch body lift followed by building a custom winch bar and warn 9000Lb winch. I removed the A/cond and fitted up an endless air comp (custom brackets made). I then fitted up the auto diff Lokka's front and rear. I have just finished making a set of sliders and rear bar with recovery hooks. Cant decide on tyres, but will be 33" mud tyres on her asap.
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Will add more pics once the rear bar is painted and fitted.
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Last edited by NateDog on Mon Aug 29, 2011 9:28 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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Re: Me MU

Postby Citron » Sat Aug 13, 2011 11:26 pm

very tidy m8, can you tell us how u mounted the high lift jack mounts on the back
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Re: Me MU

Postby Captcol » Sun Aug 14, 2011 6:31 pm

looks good, keep the pictures coming, I can recommend the maxxis bighorn as a nice mud tyre, not that its seen to much mud but they are pretty good on the road as far as noise and handling go.
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Re: Me MU

Postby NateDog » Sun Aug 14, 2011 9:41 pm

Heres a pic of the high lift mount. I removed the old spare tyre hanger and made up this bit of tube and plate with 2 bolts drilled and welded on to the same hole pattern as the high lift jack. The bolt plate also fits snug inside the high lift jack rail for extra support.
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Vehicle: 91 Isuzu MU, 2.8TD, Front & Rear Lokka's, 9000Lb Winch (50 mtr winch line), Snorkel, 2in Body lift, 2in Suspension lift, 33in tyres with neg 44 x 15in rims, custom made Winch Bar, custom made rear draw, Endless Air compressor, custom high lift jack mount, custom sliders, custom rear bar, UHF, front IPF spotties, EGT + Boost gauge, Fuel tank lift, home made flare guards, heavy duty steering links.

Re: Me MU

Postby Citron » Tue Aug 16, 2011 4:56 pm

nice, might do something similar myself :D
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Re: Me MU

Postby NateDog » Sun Aug 21, 2011 9:44 pm

Finally got to finish the rear bar and recovery hooks today.
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Vehicle: 91 Isuzu MU, 2.8TD, Front & Rear Lokka's, 9000Lb Winch (50 mtr winch line), Snorkel, 2in Body lift, 2in Suspension lift, 33in tyres with neg 44 x 15in rims, custom made Winch Bar, custom made rear draw, Endless Air compressor, custom high lift jack mount, custom sliders, custom rear bar, UHF, front IPF spotties, EGT + Boost gauge, Fuel tank lift, home made flare guards, heavy duty steering links.

Re: Me MU

Postby NateDog » Sun Aug 21, 2011 9:58 pm

All bar work done and new winch line and fairlead installed.
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Vehicle: 91 Isuzu MU, 2.8TD, Front & Rear Lokka's, 9000Lb Winch (50 mtr winch line), Snorkel, 2in Body lift, 2in Suspension lift, 33in tyres with neg 44 x 15in rims, custom made Winch Bar, custom made rear draw, Endless Air compressor, custom high lift jack mount, custom sliders, custom rear bar, UHF, front IPF spotties, EGT + Boost gauge, Fuel tank lift, home made flare guards, heavy duty steering links.

Re: Me MU

Postby muzila » Mon Aug 22, 2011 8:36 pm

Nice work! Can you get more pics of rear bar and hooks plz? more detail? how much to make one you recon?
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Re: Me MU

Postby Pissy » Tue Aug 23, 2011 9:46 am

Well done, another lucky person who can do they own upgrades and metal work,..(I'm jealous)
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Re: Me MU

Postby MattWest » Thu Aug 25, 2011 4:16 pm

Nice bar work mate, looks good! Just curious if you certed your body lift? Been thinking about this but not keen for the cert and wondered if you get away with it at wof time. Cheers, Matt
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Re: Me MU

Postby muzila » Thu Aug 25, 2011 8:11 pm

When I get time I going to have a look for a low volume vehicle file I found thay stated that for a 2inch body lift (52mm) you didn't have to have it certed.

As wee all know, here in NZ at least its a bloody nightmare with WOF and body lifts. Some guys let them through others wont.

I will report back when I find it.l
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Re: Me MU

Postby Captcol » Sat Aug 27, 2011 6:29 am

Got mine certed for 2" body lift, 33" tyres and ball joint flip, his main concern was had I cut or welded anything, passed easy as with poly blocks
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Re: Me MU

Postby slightlydodgy » Sat Aug 27, 2011 6:47 am

never been asked about the body lift or the engine and gearbox lift even when the garage had to replace the gearbox mount (could have done it myself but they were replacing a brake line that runs along the chassis)
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Re: Me MU

Postby geeves » Sat Aug 27, 2011 3:33 pm

Currently suspension lifts are ok if done using just springs which are designed for the vehicle providing all other wof requirements are met. Most 4wd replacement springs are a 50mm lift. Lifts using shackles and body lifts must be certified. A lot of garages let these through either because they are sensible or dont know that this is a mod on this vehicle. Even if you have a brand new wof with a mod that should of been certified you run a couple of big risks. A: get pulled over at a checkpoint and if the policeman knows the rules he can order the vehicle off the road. He will also start a prosecution against the wof issuer. B: if you have a decent crash the insurance company will inspect the vehicle and if they think the mod may of had a bearing on the crash they will refuse the claim. Its up to you to at possibly great expense prove otherwise. Insurance assessors are now called "loss adjusters" for good reason.

Now the bad news The vehicle hight rules in certification are currently under revue with the aim of introducing a maximum lift that can be certified. If you have a significant lift it could be well worth getting the cert done now. Members of nz4wd assoc affiliated clubs will know more detail on this
Sanding your knuckles before starting work can help. That way you cant skin them
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Re: Me MU

Postby turnturn » Sun Aug 28, 2011 12:47 am

I'm with Geeves on this one. Just having the WOF sticker on your window doesn't mean all is OK. If you have a modified vehicle (even with a current WOF on the windscreen) you are still in "Shitters Ditch" when it comes to an insurance claim if the nice man (being polite) inspecting your vehicle can find some reason to decline your policy. Insurance companies actively seek reasons to be "not liable" for payment.
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Re: Me MU

Postby geeves » Sun Aug 28, 2011 7:34 am

In theory a defect or mod has to be a contributor to a crash before they can decline payout. There was a case a while ago where they paid out on a car that skided into a ditch with bald tyres. Assessors decision was that the road was icy and so slippery that even new tyres wouldnt of saved him.
In practise they start a claim process with a no then try and justify it. They will try and decline a claim for bad headlights on a sunny day. Once this happen you have to fight for every cent. If you have to fight in the courts you could win and get less than it cost you.
Sanding your knuckles before starting work can help. That way you cant skin them
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Re: Me MU

Postby NateDog » Wed Sep 07, 2011 7:31 am

Cheers for the comments on the bar work gents. I borrowed the pipe bender and welder from a mate and did all the fab work myself. So just a few boxes of beers his way. I think a good estimate on making the rear bar and sliders (not inc recovery hooks) would be around $250- $300, depending on your steel supplier prices. I used the original bolts on the side of the chassis and drilled the other two holes right through. I cut off the original recovery hook mount (on R/H side). This made it easy to mount the new style recovery hook. Anyway here are some pics of the bar during build up and recovery hooks as requested.
Oh and I havent been through for a WOF since mods done. But will let you know in a few months. Cheers
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Re: Me MU

Postby Captcol » Thu Sep 08, 2011 4:57 am

Have you considered lifting the diesel tank with your body lift?
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Re: Me MU

Postby geeves » Thu Sep 08, 2011 3:20 pm

re tow hook. Are those bolts right through the chassis? Did you use crush tubes? If not the chassis will crush loosening the bolts.
Sanding your knuckles before starting work can help. That way you cant skin them
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Re: Me MU

Postby NateDog » Thu Sep 08, 2011 9:13 pm

Will be doing the fuel tank lift soon Captcol.
The bolts are right through the chassis. I haven't fitted crush tubes in the chassis as I plan to weld and drill out another 6mm plate (like the top plate), to the bottom side (between recovery hook and chassis), which will then sandwich the chassis and it wont go anywhere. Thats how my front bar is done and it hasn't budged a bit. If the plates were not either side of the chassis I would have gone with the tube inserts.
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Vehicle: 91 Isuzu MU, 2.8TD, Front & Rear Lokka's, 9000Lb Winch (50 mtr winch line), Snorkel, 2in Body lift, 2in Suspension lift, 33in tyres with neg 44 x 15in rims, custom made Winch Bar, custom made rear draw, Endless Air compressor, custom high lift jack mount, custom sliders, custom rear bar, UHF, front IPF spotties, EGT + Boost gauge, Fuel tank lift, home made flare guards, heavy duty steering links.

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