Hamz's New Wizard (Harry)

[Hamzzz]

My friend insists on calling it harry... so i finally got a new wizard




No wof or reg, has leaking diesel tank, but only leaking from the fuel intake bit, so shouldn't be bad, one reverse light connection bad, should be easy fix, little bit of rust on the chassis rail. but rest of it looks sweet

Future mods are

- Bighorn intercooler
- STI Bonet Scoop
- Remove EGR
- 2" HD lifted springs
- Maunal Hubs
- Trans Cooler
- Oil Relocator with oil Cooler
- modify intake system to 3"

And big list of bits missing hah, but rest of the truck looks pretty tidy, gave it a vacuum today and put those ridgeryder deep dish floor mats in, put my safari alloy 31's on and the offset is perfect to the flares, looks better now. And took the ally side rails off, they're up for grabs if someone wants them.

I actually have the new springs to put in, tried today but jacking the truck up with a jack and 4 bricks was getting a bit dodgy, so decided to wait till i can use a hoist or get something more safer to lift the body off the axel :/ and found there is already a trans cooler installed on the truck... hmmm already bought one off trademe, anyone know if i can use the trans cooler as a oil cooler?

Cheers

Hamz

Watch this space

[MuMuKaChoo]

Hey Hamz,

Only just got the truck and your modifying it already Keep up the good work.'

Should be able to use the trans cooler as an oil cooler just check the fittings are the same for the oil relocator lines.

[Hamzzz]

yep haha,

trans cooler showed up this morning


went to bunnings after course today and got some tools to take the hubs off (yay more tools)
Hub off


Hubs done, as far as i know they work... also on drivers side, the washer behind the circlip didn't fil back on, should i worry about that?


and went for wof today, only front swaybar bushes, rear left trailarm bush, and stupid headlight screw. woo easy fixes, so fixed the headlight screw, and ill go into warehouse autoparts and get trail arm bush and the swaybar bushes (was going to just pull front swaybar off, but kind of want to keep it for road comfort.

[geeves]

With the electric/vacuum disconnecting front diff Im not sure how much benefit you get from fitting free wheel hubs . Mine still has a fault in the gearbox so it doesnt work of the 4wd selector but is overridden by a simple switch which also allows low ratio 2wd by not locking the disconnect.
The washer is a shim that adjusts the end float in the cv You might be able to get it in by pushing the cv outwards from behind the hub but if you cant its probably ok. Too loose and water can get in. Too tight causes wear.

[Hamzzz]

interesting, thanks geeves. yeah i realise it disengages, but my intention is just to have the wheels rolling on the hubs, that way the front diff isnt being pushed by the front wheels, plus they were cheap...

Geeves, a quick question, how much noise is too much when your turbo is whistling? i was thinking of rotating the housing on my turbo to suit the bighorn intercooler, but might just get a bighorn turbo.

[geeves]

if its just noise then if you can here the radio its not to loud. Unfortuantly some noises mean bad things are going to happen. My bighorn has had a whine in the turbo when cold for 17 years Never got worse Might never get worse. The wizard had the dreaded whine on shutdown and a whine when running. It also had a leaking manifold so the turbo had to come off anyway. The wastegate was also sticking.It may of lasted a while more but who knows. If your after a turbo Ive still got it here but it is less than perfect and its a lot of work to change. Postage only if you need it

[lewis]

I have a STI scoop on my Mu, fitted by previous owner. It is huge haha. Actually hard to see over when you are offroading and climbing (at least for me - I am short). Probably does flow a lot more air than the bighorn scoops though and definitely allows room for a fan on top of intercooler

[Hamzzz]

@ Geeves, mine is doing the exact same, whine on start up and shut down, thanks for the offer but seems yours is making the same noises as mine hah. ill look around for a RHB5 and then i wont have to worry about rotating the housing

@ Lewis, good to hear its big, thats what im planning on, going to be my tow/road truck so wont be a problem, although i am considered tall, so wont be a problem haha.

anyway, for those who are interested, found my diesel tank leak, ill let the picture speak for itself


also, fuel guage showing empty (when full) pulled the plug out to the sender and checked the connection, plug has three pins, black, yellow/red, pink. yellow good, black good, pink gets connection on both black and pink pins, but not the otherway around??? so maybe a diode in there somewhere? or does it just sound like the sender is stuffed. fuel guage is showing way lower than low. any fuel guage specialists on this forum?

[isuzurob]

black should be earth, yellow/red should be power and pink is the resistance or signal to the gauge, thats a guess, the senders do play up i have replaced a few

[Hamzzz]

cheers, ill head to the wreckers tomorrow.

[geeves]

I replaced mine on the bighorn. They are just a big wire wound resister with a scraping centre contact. Mine had broken at about 3/4 tank so it read full then got down to 3/4 then empty. I toyed with rewinding mine but too much like hard work.

[Hamzzz]

well, quick update on todays pregress, got another fueltank sender and same thing is happening, anyideas?


I went to my buddy at bridgestone today to get the bushes pressed out of my trailing arm as one was delaminated (wof time) and his press ran out of oil.... so i thought of a differnt way to "press" them bushes out

Center Out

Rubber out

and i got the liner out with a small belt sander we have at work, grinding down one strip and forcing my chisel between the liner and the housing, and came out no problem
Once done, i realised i took out the wrong bush hahaha, you can see the delaminated one here

so i took the one i was meant to out, and gave the whole trail arm a bit of a spruice up with some hammer on


if that stuff turns out any good, ill be using it to paint the chassis, there is quite a bit of rust underneath 0.0

[Hamzzz]

Hey geeves, how did you get a cone filter to fit in your factory box?

[geeves]

No pictures sorry but went to supercheap and got a adapter mount that has 4 screws on top. Drilled the cap of the factory box to match bolted the adapter to the lid of the airbox then clamped the filter to this. Only catch is there is not enough room to mount the filter then put in position. You either have to remove the top hose first then lift it out as an assembly or as I do which is drop the filter inot the box put the lid just above and then lift the filter into place and tighten the clamp through the narrow space available. Its only a 2 skinned knuckles grade job.

[isuzurob]

have also seen a 3 inch pipe welded to the inside of the lid and fit the pod filter to that

[geeves]

the wizard lid is plastic.
If these adapters had been around when I did the bighorn it would of been a $30 pod in there and not a $90 finner filter drop in element. Still it works well though

[Hamzzz]

i have some 3" alloy pipe, ill grind the top of the lid, make some L brackets and rivet the pipe in and use silicone to seal it up, i think that should work

[Hamzzz]

Thanks Mattmanz for you help, i fixed the fuel guage, FYI there is a plug under the drivers seat the breaks the signal wire for the fuel sender, found the yellow had corroded out of this connector after i rewired it haha. damn oh well

I put the free flow filter in, seems to be letting more air in and spoiling up the turbo a bit quicker now

Out with the old

In with the new


And heres the lattest photo of the truck, hoping to borrow someones hoist soon to get the springs in. and intercooler and scoop to go on soon.

[geeves]

hoist to put springs in? Just use a trolly jack

[isuzurob]

yes depends how big of a lift spring he has, will have to jack the body up a fair way to get them in