mullet's 93 bighorn 3.1ITD manual LWB

[gomulletgo]

Hi all, unlike last time where I looked at about 12 UBS55 Bighorns before I purchased one this time round I purchased the first manual UBS69 I looked at, and a heap of a one at that.

Looks best with rain on it

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I have quite the to do list:
tighten alternator belt
oil catch can
replace UJ in rear driveshaft
replace? rubber balancer on gearbox/D-shaft flange
get elec windows and mirrors working - got mirrors working, still working on windows
fix popping out of low 4x4
door hold open welds broken
Vacuum / clean
replace chewed seatbelts
water blast oil covering bottom of engine/gbox/transfer
water blast / rust kill underbody
dinged rear quarter - push out/rust kill
Snorkel
Big bore exhaust
EGR delete - making blanking plates
EGT & Boost
Remove rain shields - 3 removed
Wheels and Tyres - Test if my 31x10.5R15 Extreme Muds with 15 inch alloys will fit (may be a caliper issue)
Flares
Remove Nudge Bar
Install Manual Hubs
LSD / Lockers

That's it for now but I'm sure there is plenty to do that I haven't even thought of yet. The UBS69 definitely has a more comfy ride than my UBS55

[gomulletgo]

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[geeves]

pic one shows a extra vac reservoir. Unlike your ubs55 under cadence braking you can get many peddel pushes in a row

[gomulletgo]

Hi Geeves,

Thanks for letting me know, I'm guessing it could be re-located if needed?

UPDATE

To Do:
oil catch can
replace UJ in rear driveshaft - Driveshaft removed ready for new UJ
get elec windows working - All windows working except one switch on Driver Control
fix popping out of low 4x4 - No broken mounts seen engine/trans/TC
door hold open welds broken
Vacuum / clean - Partial
water blast oil covering bottom of engine/gbox/transfer - Removed a lot of oil gunk by hand
water blast / rust kill underbody
Snorkel - Removed fresh air piping to airbox, removed the plastic inner guard liner
Big bore exhaust - appears more room for 3" dump pipe than on the 2.8TD UBS55
EGR delete - Blanked intake and exhaust manifold - need to sort vac lines / solenoids
EGT & Boost - EGT sensor in exhaust manifold, starting to make gauge pod
Wheels and Tyres - Test if my 31x10.5R15 Extreme Muds with 15 inch alloys will fit (may be a caliper issue)
Flares
Install Manual Hubs
LSD / Lockers

Done:
Tightened alternator belt
Removed rain shields
Removed rubber balancer on gearbox/D-shaft flange
Got elec mirrors working
Replaced chewed seatbelts
Dinged rear quarter - pushed out a little/rust killed - tackle more later when doing barwork
Over Boost protection plated off / valve removed
Removed Nudge Bar
Intake butterfly removed

[gomulletgo]

I checked out the option codes for this bighorn.

Please excuse the caps

ENGINE RJC = 4JG2 ENGINE*
TRANS RMN = MANUAL TRANSMISSION 5 SPEED MUA
GRADE RBL = No Info
TIRE 9RV = No Info
BODY TYPE V4W = 4 DOOR WAGON*
B.COLOUR/TRIM 780/130 = BODY COLOR GOLD MICA GREEN/LT. SILVER METALLIC* / INTERIOR COLOR BROWN*

OPTION
AS3 = 3RD SEAT 7 PASSENGERS*
C68 = FULL AUTO AIR CONDITIONING
S1Y = AUTO LOCKING HUB
S3Y = PRIVACY GLASS
T96 = LAMP FRONT FOG
X72 = BRONZE GLASS
6MG = BRONZE GLASS SHADED UPPER
6MK = DOOR MIRROR ELEC FOLDING W/DEF
6PW = No Info
6WW = BATTERY 115D31R*

I wonder what my diff ratios are. I see I have not got a G80 (Limited Slip Diff). Can the 4JB1-T bolt straight up to the MUA transmission?

[gomulletgo]

UBS69 4JG2 3.1TD EGR Removal - Vacuum lines.

Ok so I've removed so far:
* EGR valves on intake manifold
* EGR crossover pipe between intake and exhaust manifold
* Butterfly valve on intercooler intake

Now I've got to remove all the un-needed vacuum lines and solenoids, the UBS69 4JG2 setup looks quite different to the UBS55 4JB1 though. It appears there are more vac lines on the UBS69 4JG2 and they have harder to trace routes around the engine. I really just want to pull it all out but I'm holding off till I hear from you guys. Some of the hoses appear to run to hard lines that follow the chassis rails, are they diff breathers?

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After removing the un-needed hoses is the desired setup for the small Vac / Boost Hoses:

#1 pipe connects to the top of the fuel pump, boost guage and intercooler. (BOOST)
#2 pipe connects to alternator (VACUUM supply) and idle up solenoid then bottom of the fuel pump.
#3?
#4?

Thanks in advance guys. I hope this info helps others down the track

[geeves]

diff ratio codes are gt5= 4.8 hc6 = 4.5 s2j=4.3
Bet you have s2j and want gt5
Everyone wants gt5 Noone has ever actually seen one

Do you have proper locking hubs or shift on the fly?
Both good systems but the second needs more vac lines

[gomulletgo]

Hi Geeves,

Thanks for the info. I don't see either codes (gt5 or s2j). I posted all the codes on the plate above. Is there somewhere else I should look for the diff codes?

It has auto hubs the same type as shown in the auto hub removal thread: viewtopic.php?f=25&t=1955 How would I know if it had shift of the fly?

Also is the 4JG2 in this 93 Bighorn electronic fuel injection or manual fuel injection? How would I figure it out?

[gomulletgo]

I've just been looking at getting some feed wires for my aftermarket gauges. For the earth I found a good spot in behind the ash tray. For the ACC +ve feed I looked at using the +ve wire to the cigarette lighter socket but it's showing +0.6V even with the key in the LOCK position......this seems odd. Anyone got any reason why that may be? With the key in the ACC position it's up above 12V where I'd expect it to be. Because of the weird +0.6V where there should be none I've not hooked up any wire just yet.

I'm stumped on where to get the headlight feed for the dimming of the aftermarket gauges at night. The headlight turn switch to the right of the steering wheel has about 6 wires feeding into it and I don't know how to work out which wire does what. I don't think I could push my multimeter probes into the back of it while it's clipped in place.

Thanks in advance

[geeves]

Headlight relays are under the bonnet on rhs Its a block of 3 relays Thats where I would go for headlight dimming. Cant answer the 0.6 for sure but it could be leakage across the switcch or even an ilusion from using a didgital multimeter

[gomulletgo]

Hi Geeves,

Thanks for that info I've just checked the truck again tonight. I don't think the multimeter is at fault. I checked several other things and the meter worked flawlessly.

A bit of background, when I got the vehicle the lady told me the battery was dicky, I knew the alternator belt was loose so I've tightened that. I noted that the battery window was showing green which is good. I put the battery on charge overnight and got the battery charged up.

Now about a week or two later the battery is back down to 12.35V I'd expect over 12.6V if the battery was good and not being drained by the truck.

So I did some more checking of the cigarette lighter and there is definitely 0.6V there even with the key in the "LOCK" position. I confirmed this by testing voltage and resistance, I used the cigarette lighter's earth and also a completely separate earth to confirm my findings. Removing the cig lighter fuse dropped the cig lighter voltage to zero.

I removed the positive terminal clamp from the battery so I could touch it on the battery positive terminal lightly looking for sparking, sure enough it sparks a little every time they touch. Also there is a loud clicking (solenoid?) coming from somewhere around the passengers firewall area, is this normal? What is it? Perhaps there is some voltage draining there as well as the cig lighter.

In case it's relevant, I've currently got the stereo removed and a bunch of other dash things un-plugged, I don't think this should create the above issues though.

I'm hoping some bright sparks can shed some light on this Maybe I should move this issue from the build thread to the electrical faults thread area?

[geeves]

Some leakage for sure. Can be a hard slog to find it. Eliminate one thing at a time and keep notes

[gomulletgo]

UPDATE: So I've just wired up my EGT and boost gauge that I previously had in my UBS55. I just took the UBS69 for a test drive and the boost is about 10psi which is about where I'd expect it to be. But the EGT's were really high on acceleration, on a cold engine I hit over 600°C in third gear going slightly downhill !

I did a few more runs and any hard acceleration in 3rd, 4th or fifth gear could get the temp over 600°C. These tests were done with the vehicle empty, no towing and on basically flat ground. I never revved up to red line.

I didn't see any black smoke at all so I don't think overfuelling is the issue (NB: I haven't touched the fuel pump. I'd say neither has previous owner)

Are these temps over 600°C normal for the 4JG2 in a Bighorn with EGR removed? I know my UBS55 with 4JB1-T in the same conditions would not be able to get up to 550°C even giving it absolute death. I don't think I ever saw 600°C in the UBS55, even towing uphill.

Could the little Vac lines not hooked up correctly create overheating? Could the exhaust flapper valve be blocking the exhaust? Could the airfilter be blocked so bad the engine is not getting enough air?

TIA

[isuzurob]

All depends on the health of the engine but my 4jb1-t ubs55 ran 750-800 degree c going up hills under load, ran like that for the 8 years i owned it, i would run the 4gj2 slightly lower as they arnt direct injection and pistons and head are weaker