Regan's Moo

by **Downhillnz** » Sun Apr 26, 2015 6:08 am

Found my water leak!!!!!!!!

The alloy plate behind the water pump and cambelt assembly was leaking water at a great rate.

Changed out a cambelt and tensioner while i was in there and the seals.

Side note. Why did BNT give me three seals? The one I can't find a home for has foam and a metal ring.

by **MrRevhead** » Sun Apr 26, 2015 10:55 am

Because BNT?
Their kit will likely cover various versions, there were quite a few used in small trucks as well.

by **turnturn** » Sun Apr 26, 2015 9:00 pm

Did you also do the seal and o-ring that are part of the camshaft retainer plate?
Also the Timing Belt Idler Bearing bolt needs to have sealant applied to it if you have also had it out.

Regan, had you mentioned the water leak before?

It has been discussed in other posts before.

viewtopic.php?f=23&t=5996&p=37595&hilit=+water+leak#p37595

viewtopic.php?f=23&t=1668&hilit=+water+leak

by **Downhillnz** » Mon Apr 27, 2015 1:37 pm

That was the exact leak I had. No motor removal. I have better things to do with my weekend than remove it. Pulled the timing gears off and removed the plate. Fixed the water leak. I instead have a decent oil leak from where it mates up to the sump...

But yes I replaced the seals. Was worthwhile even tho I'm pretty sure it had all been done 15 thousand prior to me being in there.

by **mrMUMU** » Mon Apr 27, 2015 8:22 pm

Hi mate
I read your post and I see that you read through my post about changing the timing cover gasket, if you were able to replace it your half way their make sure of the year as the cam belt engine model runs a paper gasket and the timing gear engine runs the steel gasket. (Their is a difference)

Now for you oil leak you "DO NOT NEED TO REMOVE THE ENGINE" my father in law helped me out first time round when we installed the wrong gasket and coped a massive oil leak.

Second time round i did the job and was patient. All I did was smear the paper gasket in sealant and installed timing cover
Then I used a new Front sump seal and covered it in sealant, it's messy but it does work make sure your bolts are lined up properly

Anything you need to know that I haven't mentioned just ask I was told it is an engine out and it would be impossible.

Cheers mrmumu

by **Downhillnz** » Tue Apr 28, 2015 4:58 am

mrMUMU wrote:Hi mate
I read your post and I see that you read through my post about changing the timing cover gasket, if you were able to replace it your half way their make sure of the year as the cam belt engine model runs a paper gasket and the timing gear engine runs the steel gasket. (Their is a difference)

Now for you oil leak you "DO NOT NEED TO REMOVE THE ENGINE" my father in law helped me out first time round when we installed the wrong gasket and coped a massive oil leak.

Second time round i did the job and was patient. All I did was smear the paper gasket in sealant and installed timing cover
Then I used a new Front sump seal and covered it in sealant, it's messy but it does work make sure your bolts are lined up properly

Anything you need to know that I haven't mentioned just ask I was told it is an engine out and it would be impossible.

Cheers mrmumu

I replaced the paper gasket with gasket in a tube. I didn't have a seal at the bottom of the plate where it connects to the sump. There just wasn't one in there when I stripped it down. Just lots of goo. That is where its leaking from.

by **mrMUMU** » Thu Apr 30, 2015 5:22 pm

I'll check my emails tonight I got the gasket from New Zealand as no one in Australia was capable of locating the right gasket.
Pretty sure holden did and they wanted a fortune

The front sump seal for the engine is a half moon shape with 2 bolt holes it's a pain to fit but that why yours would be leaking

Cheers

by **mrMUMU** » Thu Apr 30, 2015 9:03 pm

ok the contact details of the parts supplier from new zealand are below i will include their part numbers and a brief description if you do contact Shane please confirm the numbers are correct
I have also included their suppliers website which will show you gaskets seals etc for the early 4JB1T type engine

i do recall that bursons did have the front sump seal/gasket

http://www.nzgaskets.co.nz/EngineDetail ... gineID=694

N2101 Paper gasket estimated price/price i paid $4.20
B763 Front Sump Seal estimated price/price i paid $21.08

Shane Voice National Manager
shane.voice@autostar.co.nz
http://www.automotivesupplies.co.nz/

regards adrian

by **Downhillnz** » Sat May 02, 2015 5:21 am

Much appreciated. Has anyone got an easy way of replacing that front sump seal without taking that alloy plate and everything else off?

by **Downhillnz** » Sun May 24, 2015 11:14 am

Yesterday was a very eventful day.
I managed to roll my moo on its side. To add insult to injury... it caught fire.

Lucky for me we quickly pulled it over onto wheels and put the fire out.

Not the most enjoyable thing around for me and my passenger.

Photos to follow

by **MrRevhead** » Sun May 24, 2015 12:57 pm

What the hell did you do to manage that? Must have been in the arvo as I saw you drive up Queen st just before lunch.

by **Downhillnz** » Sun May 24, 2015 8:14 pm

Was doing something I know I shouldn't have been doing. It dropped all the oil out of the sump...

11286611_10153309537551950_1531425372_o.jpg

And that was the aftermath. Can't see very well but the windscreen is smashed and the back guard is pushed up badly.

by **MrRevhead** » Mon May 25, 2015 7:47 am

Oh dear.
How buggered is it?

by **geeves** » Mon May 25, 2015 3:28 pm

couple new panels and the body will be fine. You didnt even break the mirror. Just a question of how much damage the fire did.

by **Downhillnz** » Tue May 26, 2015 7:22 pm

I broke the glass in the mirror sadly.

Anybody done a body swap?

by **MrRevhead** » Tue May 26, 2015 7:29 pm

If you can do a chassis swap, not a body swap

by **Downhillnz** » Wed May 27, 2015 5:15 am

Well I've sussed another complete moo. I was going to do a body swap. The new body is nice and straight

by **MrRevhead** » Wed May 27, 2015 6:44 am

What I was getting at was to do with the chassis numbers on the firewall. So whilst you will put the new body on your chassis. For rego purposes (assuming the new MU has live rego?) It will probably be easier and cheaper to use the rego of the new one rather than much around changing vin numbers etc.
But it would be best to talk to VINZ etc first to work out which way to go.

by **Downhillnz** » Wed May 27, 2015 3:18 pm

I hadn't seen chassis numbers on the fire wall? Only the VIN number? Which is only to show that it has been imported into NZ.

I was planning to swap the VIN numbers over because mine has reg and wof. As far as I'm aware..... the chassis code is on the physical chassis and me removing the vin number and putting on the new body isn't illegal?
Hopefully someone can come in and correct me if I am wrong.

by **geeves** » Wed May 27, 2015 3:35 pm

not illegal but it can get complicated If it ever needs any form of comliance ie low vol cert etc they do check the numbers match. When they dont you get asked lots of questions

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