Power window faults, MU

[MrRevhead]

So dodgy electric windows seem to be common then?
What have you guys come across and what were the fixes?

My r/h switch on the drivers door used to work the passenger window, they l/h switch occasionally worked the drivers window.
No, non do anything
Pulled the switch apart and all looks good in there, no arcing or corrosion. So there must be a control unit somewhere that's fried I'm guessing.

Just glad I have a/c!

[Pissy]

Have you looked my FAQ on Power Windows
viewtopic.php?f=26&t=763

[MrRevhead]

No haven't seen that, at first glance that's not my issue but will have another look in the weekend, cheers

[MrRevhead]

Yeah that's def not my issues, all good in there. Plus for some reason when they worked, the r/h switch worked the l/h window.
I suspect some skullduggery in the control unit. Just need to look and find where it's hidden!

[isuzurob]

the toggle in the switch breaks, have done 5 switches in my mu and a mates mu, they are always breaking

[MrRevhead]

Will be pulling it apart again in the weekend, but I didn't see any broken parts last time. And broken plastic doesn't explain why when it did work, the switches worked the wrong windows!
Sometimes I really do wish I could meet the guys work "worked" on this thing in the past

[isuzurob]

just pull them out and fit manual winders out of a tf rodeo, remember to get the door cards aswell, fixed forever then

[turnturn]

A brand new a drivers door window switch is $130 to $160 for a Mu. This will fix your problem.

In an earlier post you mention a "control unit". There is none, it is all done in the drivers door switch.

As Isuzurob mentioned earlier there is a small part of the rocker (square bit) that breaks. I have naffed about with a couple of them trying to fix them with no success. I now just replace them with a new one. You could try your luck with a second hand one, your choice.

There is three different part numbers for these over the years.
The following numbers are for the drivers door electric window switch for a right hand drive Mu.

05/1990 to 08/1992 #8-97000-021-0
09/1992 to 10/1995 #8-94363-869-0
11/1995 on #8-97152-734-1

[MrRevhead]

No control unit but there is relay. Somewhere in there is a wiring cockup.
Need to find the cause before I know what to replace.

[muzila]

I think the relay your lookin for is behind the left kick panel. The door lock one is in there too.

Passenger side panel in the footwell on the left. check in there. There is one in the drivers side as well. cant remember what that one is for just now.

[MrRevhead]

LOL I just looked in the drivers kick panel doh!

Anyway, here's what I have found today:
one of the rockers has cracked, it's all intact but when I have it out I can see where it allows the pin thing to rock. Needs superglue and shops are shut
So I swapped the rockers around and sorted one side.

The other issue as to why they stopped, the contacts were bent so when they tipped to make contact the centre part would lift out of where they sat and not complete the circuit.
I found that by taking the top off the switch and moving the copper contacts by hand. I had to hold them one way, then apply a little pressure on the other end to make it work. So some gentle massaging and I think I have that sorted.

No power at all to the passengers door switch. But I suspect when I find the relays I will find the wiring has been disconnected for that side and the L and R leading to the drivers switch reversed. Hence why those switchs are backasswards.

However right now I need to go sort the missus Corona, I suspect dodgy inner cv
Then it's off to Blenheim for the airshow

[sirprosper280d]

its actually cheaper to convert electric windows to manual. you simply buy manual window mechanism and take out the electric motor and switches. the door panel has provision for both manual and electric window actuation. i have done that on a 1997 KB 280 DT LE which is a South African assembled.

[geeves]

I have a intermittent fault In my windows Last time it happened it was the first time in 2 years but it has the habbit of letting you open the windows on a hot day but not letting you close them untill after the cold river crossing or wont let them down when you need the heater on to cure overheating (see my radiator post a while ago) It also disappears every time you get the meter out. Last time it happened I got as far as proving no power to the relay but then it disappeared Next time it happens the relay will just get the contacts bridged end of problem but windows then work without the key on.

[MrRevhead]

Lol gremlins hiding in yours!
I don't really want to get rid of the electric windows.
Drivers one works fine now. Passengers door switch Is FUBAR.
Still haven't found the relays though, windows still work with everything in the passenger kick panel unplugged!

[geeves]

relay is in the fuse box

[sirprosper280d]

to avoid overload on window motor and electrical circuitry avoid opening windows on wet conditions especially after rain. water ingress in window guides creates resistance to window movement. some windows may slightly jam on upward motion due to window rail unevenness hence need to manually assist my lifting with your hand.

[MrRevhead]

I spray silicone on the guides in the door frame. Makes a huge difference

[mubee]

Power to the windows is provided thru a relay in the fuse box. This is controlled by the ignition switch. Always found no window control after turning off engine to be a discomfort . so used a Dick Smith delay timer board set to 1 minute to hold relay for 1 minute after ignition goes off like most modern cars. Now I can turn off the engine, pull the key, close the window I've forgotten to shut, then get out and lock the MU without having to re-insert the key etc.

[MrRevhead]

I know your pain lol.
Good idea!
When you say fuse box do you mean the one by the drivers right knee?

[mubee]

FULL EXPLANATION WITH ATTACHMENT
Yes that's right the MU has has a 15A fuse for the power windows in the fuse box you mention - by your right knee. Not sure how technical you are or what your background is so PM me if the rest of this get's you by more than the throat I'll fill in the gaps if you wanna do it. I can even supply the board built if you want I guess. Here goes; The power for the windows is taken from the Ignition switch via a main fusible link, I forget which one. Therefore when the ignition is turned off; so are the power windows.
Best way is first to construct a delay board with a 15A relay on it with a 15A fuse on the cct board. Jaycar KC-5464 is a good kit to start with. Adjust the delay to suit you. I like about 1 minute. This board will have four connections to the MU (see attachment) - Permanent +12V power (from one of the battery fusible link or other convenient point), IGN, 0V or negative (goes to chassis electical point) and Relay contact (to window cct)
This delay board installed by;
(1) Mounting or anchoring the delay board in a plastic box in a convenient spot under the dash with leads long enough to connect - perhaps near the fuse panel is best.
(2) Connecting the 0V (Chassis) or negative connection to a suitable MU body connection point near the unit.
(3) Identifying a connection in the vehicle for getting permanent 12V from the battery through a fusible link and connecting it to the PERM 12V on the board. This lead may carry up to 15 amps when windows are operated!
(3) Locating the Power Window fuse in the panel, pulling it out (and discarding it - the fuse is now part of the delay board) and using a multimeter to check which connection in the panel is power supplied from the Ignition Switch (you'll see the voltage disappear when you turn the key off). This is connected to the IGN connection on the delay board by using a male spade crimp on the end of the IGN lead from the board and pushing it into the fuse socket in the fuse panel to the connection you just found.
(4) Connecting the board's Power Window Supply lead to the other fuse socket connection in the panel. This is the lead that now feeds the power to the power windows via the delay board.
NOTE 1 - My MU was supplying power to the windows WITHOUT going through the fuse. I pulled the fuse and the windows still worked!!! Anyone else have this problem or was mine a cheap re-wire job?
NOTE 2 - Instead of plugging into the IGN on the fuse panel, I searched to find a voltage that was present for both ACC and IGN positions of the key. Ended up connecting it to the car radio power. This lead only draws a few milliamps so no problem when it's connected.
PM me if you want more. Perhaps you'd like the kit built up and posted to you with instructions. Not hard to do... Rik