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rear storage setup

No...changes to your body and chassis due to carnage does not count

rear storage setup

Postby mattmannz » Wed May 15, 2013 8:33 pm

Always found it a hassle with gear in the back when offroading. Searching showed some cool draw setups with Arb and others selling them for about $1500. I found plant of home made units online so decided to make a set.

I went with two drawers and a rear compartment. The unit is as high as the rear seats folded down so I still have a flat load area. Could put a matress on top and sleep in there if necesary.

They are about 900x900 and I have a set of wings that bolt on to the sides so they go the full width of the truck so about 1300x900. The wings have to be bolt on as the rear door opening is tapered and wouldn't be able to fit them through otherwise.

I used 17mm C/D treated construction ply, screws and glue and angle brackets to put it together and provide additional corner strength. The drawers have 45kg ball bearing runners with large metal slam latches to open/shut and lockout latches to hold them fully extended. The runners allow the draws to be easily lifted out.

The top has four ties downs fitted so I can still secure additional stuff on top of the drawers. The rear compartment uses leather straps for handles so the are flush and standard cupboard latches to hold the lid closed.

I have four d rings one at each side corner of the unit and use turnbuckles to secure the unit to the factory tie downs in the back of the truck. Takes about 10 mins to lift the drawers in, tighten turnbuckles and bolt on the side wings.

I am going to line the drawers and the top with either rubber or carpet to provide a non slip surface and stop gear rattling etc. All up I think the total weight is about 50kg.

I used two sheets of ply and laid them on top of each other so when I cut one piece I got two. Ensured that everything was the same size. I just used the skill saw and a large metal level and two clamps to make sure my cuts were straight.

Plan to leave spare parts in rear compartment and one drawer for tools and the other for recovery gear.

Took me about two weeks working here and there to get them built. Total cost will be about $450 once they are lined and finished.

The cargo barrier is out of an L300. I cut it down so it sits just above the drawers and put a crease in it so it follows the contour of the rear seats. Brackets bolt to the 3rd row seat mounts and grab handles and are 3mm steel with grade 8 fasteners. Barrier cost me $60 second hand plus a few hours work.

Matt.
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Re: rear storage setup

Postby muzila » Thu May 16, 2013 3:02 am

That is a realy nice peice of work there mate! Anyone would think they where a brought set of draws.

I really enjoy seeing people making there own stuff and not paying over the top prices for mass produced stuff.

I do realise that some people dont have the skill or time to do there own work stuff, but thats life i guess.
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Re: rear storage setup

Postby turnturn » Thu May 16, 2013 7:59 am

Good stuff Matt. Was thinking of doing similar myself shortly. Thanks for the write up.
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Re: rear storage setup

Postby westvic » Fri May 17, 2013 9:31 am

Realy nice work there Matt. Do you have plans/dimensions that you could post or PM? Would love to do same to mine.
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Re: rear storage setup

Postby mattmannz » Sun May 19, 2013 2:31 pm

Thanks guys.

Here are the dimensions that I used. I have removed the rear carpets and also run a cargo barrier so that influenced the height, width and length. I used 17mm ply so that's why some of my measurements might seem funny, I tried to keep everything easy to measure out.

Main enclosure - 304h x 920w x 917d

Wing - 304h x 215w x 917d - width tapers to 190w at the front face to account for the best shape.

Drawer - 227h x 410w x 554d - the drawer opening is 270h x 434w and the face is 266h x 430w which allows 2mm gap all the way around. The runners are about 12mm wide which is why the drawer is only 410. I decided I didn't want the drawer sides to come all the way to the top.

Rear compartment - 270h x 886w x 300d. The lid is 760w x 275d which allows it to clear the tie downs.

I got the ball bearing slides and the angle brackets from fullie.co.nz and the slam latches and spring pins from comac.co.nz and the hinges and d rings and turn buckles from a seller on trade me. The ply and screws and glue came from mitre 10 mega

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Re: rear storage setup

Postby westvic » Tue May 21, 2013 9:46 am

thanks Matt, appreciate it :D
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Re: rear storage setup

Postby mattmannz » Sun Jul 07, 2013 7:22 pm

Finally finished my drawers a few weeks ago so thought I would post up some more pics of them finished and installed.

Pretty happy with them, few things I would do differently next time though but these will do for now! All up cost about $500 which is more than I originally wanted to spend but a lot less than the $1500-2000 you pay for bought ones.

Moved the tie downs on the top out onto the wings. Finished the wings with strong brackets with captive nuts that bolt through from the inside of the drawers.

Lined all the drawers and the top with 3mm rubber and fitted a 1.5mm metal angle across the top to protect the edge and then painted the front faces.
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Re: rear storage setup

Postby turnturn » Sun Jul 07, 2013 9:05 pm

Again.....nice job.
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Re: rear storage setup

Postby Hamzzz » Mon Jul 08, 2013 6:43 pm

Nice Matt! looks really good, i made some storage space in my old wizard but wasn't anything that flash. im wondering wether to make another one for the new wizard, but its nice to have the space to put the back seats down and sleep in the back of the truck.
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Re: rear storage setup

Postby geeves » Mon Jul 08, 2013 7:09 pm

The plan in my head for my wizard id to make similar draws to mats but make them wheel arch hight only. Then make another sliding panel on top of this. Fold seat down slide panel forwards (it might need some fold down legs) place mattress on top Bed done. I got as far as a quick mock up with a queen airbed on top and the wife started seeing things my way with a small tent being so much more comfortable. You end up with about 3/4 of a meter above the mattress to get in and out of bed.
Sanding your knuckles before starting work can help. That way you cant skin them
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