Thanks Pig and Geeves.. I have now got the alternator belt on and tensioned. I thought it would be plain sailing from here on in but the friggin bolt (that came out so easily!) that is the tensioning bolt for what I think is the power steering pump (on the right hand side of the motor if you are facing it) is proving a bit of a pain in the arse to get back in. Its frustrating because its nearly there but not quite lined up enough for the bolt to thread into the nut. I'll get it eventually with a bit of jiggling but shit.. It was a lot easier to take out than put back
. It seems like it has come out of alignment a bit. Also the bracket part of it that has the nut attached to it looks slightly bent. This might be the problem but more than likely I think that is just how it is and I just need to apply pressure to it in the right way.
Geeves, I was trying to go as by the book as I could, and I was happy there was a sure fire way to bolt the cam and injector pulleys in place. I locked one but I swear the other didnt have a screw hole.. I was bamboozled by this because i was sure that it wouldnt have been left off but I looked at it over and over and the pattern of holes on the injector pulley was not the same as the pictures in the manual or ones I have seen on this site. I dont know whats happening there. It said to use M8 bolts to secure the pulleys. one pulley had the facility for this but the other only had the casting pattern holes plus one 3-4 mm hole which didnt go all the way through the pulley. I managed to jerry up a solution to stop it moving but it was because of this that I became a bit paranoid about getting the belt on the wrong tooth just in case I got it slightly wrong.
Demonic, I replaced the cambelt, the idler and the tensioner pulley, the alternator belt and the two fan belts. I purchased and did intend to replace the camshaft seal as recommended by the parts shop guy but in the end I forgot to put it in so took it back and got a refund. Buggered if Im going to go through all this again to put that little thing in, no matter now important it is. It's probably worth noting that as I understand from the parts guy, the 4jb1 engine can have either a square toothed or round toothed cam belt. I purchased both so i knew I had the right one when I opened the engine. Mine turned out to be the round toothed one so I returned the other. If I were you I would do the two pulleys and not just the cam belt while you have the engine in bits because the parts are relatively cheap and equally important as the cambelt if they fail. Some say to do the water pump too but I took a punt that it is fine. I have nice clean coolant, no funny noises from it and the car doesnt appear to run hot at all.. I took a chance or else where do you stop? Maybe I should check the head gasket and crankshaft bearings and piston rings while im at it?.
The cam belt was $40 the idler was $60 and the tensioner bearing was $70 the Camshaft seal that I didnt use was $11 the fan belts were $20 each I think and I cant remember the price of the alternator belt. Hope this helps.
The most annoying this of this whole effort was that the cam belt and pulleys looked to be in really great shape when I took them out. Apart from a bit of dust and grime they were pretty much indistinguishable from the new parts in terms of wear etc.
I probably didnt have to do it at all... Oh well.. at least I know it has been done now eh..