I just put the picture etc on your other post
viewtopic.php?f=25&t=7233&p=45120#p45120Essentially
Remove the outer plate on the free wheel hub after marking its alignment on the body
remove circlip visable inside free wheel
Lift car remove wheel remove brake caliper from stub axle and hang out of the way If you have ABS remove the brake sensor as well.
With a jack supporting the lower arm Remove tie rod and upper ball joint.
If you are lucky you can then roll the axle assembly outwards and it will clear the spline on the cv joint. This works on my Wizard but not my Bighorn even though they should be the same suspension. If not you have to remove the bottom ball joint as well and take the entire stub axle assembly off and put aside.
Now remove the band holding the large side of the boot on the inner cv. Reach into the cv and you will feel a wire spring clip. Flic the clip out with a screwdriver. The inner cv will now split and you can put the important part on the bench. Its not uncommon for the balls to drop out of the inner cv and not a sign of impending doom.
Remove the bands on the boots remove the circlip on the inner end of the half shaft and all the balls that didnt fall out. Remove the inner joint remove the cv boots and replace as required.
If you intend to replace the outer cv it is possible to get it off with a monster wack. However aftermarket cv joints do not last well. Better to get a second hand one from a wreckers. This will come as a complete half shaft probably complete with the axle mount. Much easier but dont use second hand boots. They are cheap compared to the effort changing them
Reassemble in reverse Easy
Sanding your knuckles before starting work can help. That way you cant skin them