• Advertisement

FAQ - MU Power Window Issues & Possible temp fix only

In here you will find answers to commonly asked questions about verious modifications. You will also find some great DIY's for doing mods to your Isuzu. If you have a mod to add here, please contact a member of the FAQ Team.

FAQ - MU Power Window Issues & Possible temp fix only

Postby Pissy » Wed Dec 16, 2009 8:27 pm

I have noticed a hell of allot of people having issues with their window rocker switches and must admit I never thought twice about it until it happened to me :cry:


Instead of just trying to buy/find another one, I thought I would have a go and investigate the problem.
My problem was that the switch over the last week was getting harder and harder to roll up the window.
Now I am pretty sure that whether your problem is either the window not going up or down the issue is mostly likely the same BUT not that simple to fix completely.

Originally I thought its was the copper contacts BUT I now found that due wear and tear its mostly like the plastic switch itself and not anything electrical?
Over time the rocker switch housing unit at the back of the switch ( this holds a plastic double headed roller pin held in by a spring), breaks/cracks.
This then results in switch failure as the the roller now is NOT held in the back of the switch tight enough to push/slide over the copper rods/plates to the contact points.

Confused,......well I have posted up a pic by pic description below to show the issue and a possible temporary quick fix until a replacement change be found.

If anyone has found a similar or same wiring unit with the EXACT same plastic switches from another car make then PLEASE PLEASE PM me the details and I will add it here, this will save a lot of people time and money


I have no idea if there are different types of switch panels but this DIY is based on my 3.1 MU


1. First thing,..turn car OFF, and lift up the switch panel off the door and unclip the harness.

Switch panel.JPG


2. Undo the 3 screws on the back of the switches, 2 will release the clips that holds into the door and the other will release the backing plate of the switch panel.

Back of switch panel.JPG


3. If you have a LOCK button on your panel NOW is the best time to take it off. The LOCK button comes off easily and its just the head that will POP off.

4. Now this part is a bit hard, you need to separate the rocker switch assembly by releasing the tabs on the sides of the switch.
This is tricky and hard to do without damaging the plastic around the tabs but you shouldn’t do any major damage. I used a pointed knife (not the safest thing to use,….best to use a watch makers screw driver set).

Tabs on switch panel.JPG

Inside the swtich assembly.JPG

5. Once you have figured out how to inside the assembly, be VERY CAREFUL not to loose or dislodge the tiny spring in the back of the LOCK button, if you loose it or can’t figure how to put it back you’ll loose that function so make sure you at least unlock the passenger door windows before you start should the worst case scenario occur. Hopefully from the pictures you’ll be able to place it back in should it come out. You should be able to work around this without disturbing the spring.

LOCK button spring2.JPG



6. When opened, you see 4 copper bent plates and 8 copper contact points. Clean all the points and bent plates, I have found out the hard way that the bends in the copper plates are precise and any changes could/will cause an electrical fault as some point will not make the correct contacts,.....!!!!

NOW focus on the panel that holds the switches, turn the panel over so you a clear view of the back of the switches and the roller double roller pins and springs. Gently push the roller pin back and forth and check to see if the housing unit that it sit in has not cracked or broken. If it is then then THATS your problem.

Back rocker switches broken2.jpg




If this the issue then only temp fix (if you want the drivers windows only to work) is to swap over the switches so that the broken unit is now used for the passengers window( which will not work from the drivers panel) but for now the driver windows should work.

To do this you need to take out the the double head roller pin and spring and LIFT off/out the switches from the rocker panel. I found that placing your thumb between the switch and the rocker panel and lifting upwards will pop out the switches,...BUT,....be careful as you don't want to break another switch. When both switches are off, swap sides and push then back in.

Back rocker switches broken.JPG



SORRY I only took a photo from this angle, a better photo would have been from the other side?

7. Now place the switch rocker plate over the bends of the plate and BECAREFUL with the LOCK button and ensure the spring is OK and you might need to help guide the button (both front and back of it) back into its sleeve.

Replacing assembly.JPG


8. Snap in all the tabs and hopeful the all the rocker switches will have a nicer feel and CLICK, also check the LOCK works properly, go ON and OFF.
9. Reconnect the harness and see if it works, check the LOCK button too.

2.8L MU and 3.1L MU switches are inter changable.


Hopefully this has help you out until a proper fix/new switches arrive, if it didn't work not then SORRY I can’t help and maybe an electrician is need and/or a replacement is what’s needed?

Cheers
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
Last edited by Pissy on Thu Apr 22, 2010 12:04 pm, edited 2 times in total.
Image
94 3.1L MU,2.5"suspension lift,2"body Lift,33"Bighorns,F&R Autolockers,Rock Sliders,winch bar,240 lightforces,UHF,120amp alternator,dual batteries,snorkel,turbo timer etc
User avatar
Pissy
FAQ Team
 
Posts: 155
Joined: Mon May 11, 2009 1:48 pm
Location: Brisbane
Age: 35
Country: Australia
City: Brisbane
Vehicle: 1994 3.1L Turbo Diesel MU

Re: FAQ - Power Window Issues,Possible temp fix only UPDATED!

Postby Pissy » Sun Jan 03, 2010 7:17 pm

I have updated the POWER WINDOW issue thread as I found out my first posting was wrong. I now believe I have the correct facts which should help out more and make more sense :oops:

Sorry
Image
94 3.1L MU,2.5"suspension lift,2"body Lift,33"Bighorns,F&R Autolockers,Rock Sliders,winch bar,240 lightforces,UHF,120amp alternator,dual batteries,snorkel,turbo timer etc
User avatar
Pissy
FAQ Team
 
Posts: 155
Joined: Mon May 11, 2009 1:48 pm
Location: Brisbane
Age: 35
Country: Australia
City: Brisbane
Vehicle: 1994 3.1L Turbo Diesel MU

Re: FAQ - Power Window Issues,Possible temp fix only UPDATED!

Postby Pissy » Wed Feb 03, 2010 8:21 am

.




I'm still awaiting for someone/anyone who has found a similar or same wiring unit with the EXACT same plastic switches OR just the just the same plastic switches from another car make, sooner or later most of us will run into this small but annoying issue.

PLEASE HELP ME OUT!

PLEASE PM me the details and I will add it here, this will save a lot of people time and money.




.
Image
94 3.1L MU,2.5"suspension lift,2"body Lift,33"Bighorns,F&R Autolockers,Rock Sliders,winch bar,240 lightforces,UHF,120amp alternator,dual batteries,snorkel,turbo timer etc
User avatar
Pissy
FAQ Team
 
Posts: 155
Joined: Mon May 11, 2009 1:48 pm
Location: Brisbane
Age: 35
Country: Australia
City: Brisbane
Vehicle: 1994 3.1L Turbo Diesel MU

Re: FAQ - Power Window Issues,Possible temp fix only UPDATED!

Postby Yarno » Wed Feb 03, 2010 4:23 pm

User avatar
Yarno
FAQ Team
 
Posts: 291
Joined: Sat May 09, 2009 8:11 am
Location: Aspley
Age: 36
Country: Australia
City: Brisbane
Vehicle: Isuzu MU 93 V8 monster, Toyota Landcruiser 200 sahara. MU 1996 3.1.


Return to FAQ and DIY's for modifications

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: Google [Bot] and 3 guests