A lot of play in cv axle at hub

[MightyMO0o]

HeY guys I have been noticing a rattle coming from both front wheels when I drive in rough road or hit small bumps, for a while now and decided to finally look at it, it appears that the cv axle is moving in the hub, I have manual locking hubs and he cv boots are torn on both sides but are not clicking, I’m just wondering is this a hub problem or is this a cv problem, I don’t feel like replacing both cv joints if I only need to do the boots and maybe have a look at the hubs, any help appreciated, cheers fellas.

Kerry

[geeves]

There is a needle roller bearing in the hub which the cv passes through. These do fail. You are 80% of the way in by the time you do the boots. Tap it out from the outer side of the axle and back in very gently from the inside. Dont know the bearing number but unless someone has the number they are not expensive at holden dealer

[MightyMO0o]

Cheers Geeves you have been a great help with my build so far, much appreciated

[Brinky]

Hi Alan, would you be able to point me to the correct workshop manual so I can hunt down these needle roller bearing and new seals. I don't even know what they are called, front hub drive shaft bearings? When I grab hold of the outer CV's I can move them up and down quite nicely. They will be full of sand and mud by now. Thanks heaps.

[geeves]

As far as I know the seal is dealeer only. Also the original seal has been superseded with a new version. The catch with this new seal is that it is 2 parts which are sold separately. 1 part goes on the stub axle the other on the cv. You might as well get the needle roller from the dealer as well. It is cheaper from a bearing shop but they dont list it. You need the bearing number off the old one unless buying from a dealer

[turnturn]

Original Part Numbers.

[Brinky]

Awesome guys. I will go hunting for parts. I will replace the top and bottom ball joints at the same time as those rubbers have split a long time ago. Should have done all of this when I first got the Mu but only did the CV boots, bugger. I'll let you know how I get on but might take some time to get round to it. Thanks heaps.

[Brinky]

Well here I am 4 years later on finally getting around to replacing the front hub axle seals on the UCS55 MU. I still use the original two part seals - 898036590 Oil Seal and 898036500 Deflector which are still available from Isuzu. I want to up date them to the better seal that I think is 898036595 Oil Seal and 898036560 Deflector. Part No.19 on the diagrams above show different numbers. Anybody know the correct parts when updating?
The needle bearing is common - 37mm OD x 30mm ID x 16mm (3016) Needle Roller. Mine were still intact due to the amount of grease I had pumped into them over the years.
I need to braze up and machine the Aisin free wheeling hub inner ring as all the brass has worn off mine and currently too much play. Thanks

[turnturn]

Have you been to an Isuzu dealer and asked? It's sometimes surprising what they can still get.
I'm pretty sure that I gave them the numbers in the parts diagram above the last time I got any.
They may have an updated part number now though.

[Brinky]

I received the later model knuckle seal parts from Cal Isuzu and they will fit perfectly. Looks like the knuckle seal design changed in 1996 and stayed that way for 20+ years. The original had two seal faces, the later model unit has three seals.
The seal parts you need from Isuzu are 8-98036595-0 Seal Oil/Knuckle and 8-98036560-0 Seal Dust/Drive
The needle roller is common and available from Saeco Bearings - 37mm OD x 30mm ID x 16mm (3016)
I have bronze welded and machined the free wheeling hub outer rings to replace the missing bronze bushes. I'm looking forward to having water proof hubs again along with new wheel bearings.

[turnturn]

Brinky, good information for others in the future.