REAR RECOVERY HOOK

[sprey]

Yea sorry im meaning would it be good strong enough etc to mount a recovery hook to.

[geeves]

Possibly strong enough but the chances are not good. The 2 captive nuts are most likely 10 mm which is not enough and the section of chassis at that point is quite thin and very close to the end.
The first picture shows a tie down point only. I have recovered from these in the past but only very gentle recoveries. If anything hard had been needed it would of been a 5 ton strap around the diff

[geeves]

When you get the towbar made get it done by Wellington Towbars in Vivian st They are hard core 4wders and will be able to build a towbar that has a removable towball tongue and a second tongue with a hook.
The barwork on there Korando and the other mods it has are worth a look

[sprey]

Cheers geeves. Ill most likely get that hook off and a bracket made up and then the hook onto that. Ill visit the people you suggested for that.
Tho the towbar im getting is very much like youve mentioned. Tho the towbar most likely wont be strong enough for a slide in hook
The hitch is rated at 5000lb for towing so like 2.2 ton and 400lb/180kg for the tounge.
Its 6mm steel.
But yea ill definitly take the people you mentioned into consideration once my hitch is on.
The hitch mounts to the 7th member of the frame, you can see it in my previous post with my pictures

[geeves]

Thats nicely made but at 6mm its touch and go for a recovery point. Who made it?
The 5000 lb relates to the max you can put on a towball so the bar work could be stronger
With a rated pin the 6mm box the tounge goes in is adequate. With 4 bolts spread as they are and the plate on the other side of the chassis it should take the load but 8mm would of been better It might deform but shouldnt break

[sprey]

Thats nicely made but at 6mm its touch and go for a recovery point. Who made it?
The 5000 lb relates to the max you can put on a towball so the bar work could be stronger
With a rated pin the 6mm box the tounge goes in is adequate. With 4 bolts spread as they are and the plate on the other side of the chassis it should take the load but 8mm would of been better It might deform but shouldnt break

I got the plans off a guy in the States.
Its getting made up at belmont engineirs
I thought of using it as a recovery point, but yea as youve stated as at 6mm dont wanna risk it.
Mainly just for towing and for what ever i decide to use it for, Bike rack etc

Once ive got it on ill most likely head into wellington towbars and have a chat to them about the recovery hooks. as the hitch is only mounted on the 7th chassis member, leaves the frame rails spare for the hooks.
Plus still have to get the front hooks done so that seems to be the best option for me.

Good having a member like you on here Geeves, Definitly see why you have that avatar

[sprey]

Bit of a bump
didnt mean to hijack this thread :p
Changing the design of the hitch a bit.
Adding some metal plates into the chassismember and adding a bracket for the hitch how it hooks on instead of sandwichging it in.

Engies are sorting all that out
Should hopefuly be alot stronger and possibly strong enough to recover off

[geeves]

Also add a triangular piece to the face side of the hitch (pic 1) to cross brace it better and it should be strong enough. Also consider crush tubes in the chassis.
A strange part of the modification rules in NZ is you are allowed to weld to the chassis for a towbar but no other reason.

[sprey]

Also add a triangular piece to the face side of the hitch (pic 1) to cross brace it better and it should be strong enough. Also consider crush tubes in the chassis.
A strange part of the modification rules in NZ is you are allowed to weld to the chassis for a towbar but no other reason.

Yea that is a odd rule :S
Good thing tho!!

Do you mean for the triangular piece to be like this


I got the hitch from the engineers today, got it home and test fitted it after taking off the bumper thing and cutting part of it out for the hitch.

The engineers said didnt seem the best to sandwich type mount it like i was planning to. as the bolts only go through part of the chassis member. Wont be very strong!
It seems my vehicross chassismember is missing some sort of cover at the back compared to the american ones
heres the hitch just temp sitting on the chassis member, As you can see the chassis member is hollow in the middle but not the sides
So will be getting the engineers to fill that in and make it alot stronger then there gonna remount the hitch different compared to the sandwich type it was previously gonna be.
Once i visit the engineers next will have a talk to them how there gonna mount it etc, Most likely bolts through the top to the bottom of it as well.

Geeves im liking the idea of the triangles was thinking 2 of them on each part of the bottom, so one near the front of the hitch and one down the back,
And a gap between them leaving a space for a bolt to go through

Just tryna get it as strong as possible in someways but not overkill, as it would save me alot of hassle if i could use this as a recovery point.
heres a few pics to give a bit better understanding.




geeves do you think i should create my own thread instead of hijacking this one

[Demonic]

So that chassis member is basicly C section? Thats a bugger and a half!, you really need another peice of C section welded to the front of if it, with crush tubes for the bolts to go through.

Just my own view here, but this thread IS about rear recovery hooks(points).....

[geeves]

After seeing those pictures I have to say its unlikly to be a good recovery point. Might have to consult a towbar place for the rest

[sprey]

After seeing those pictures I have to say its unlikly to be a good recovery point. Might have to consult a towbar place for the rest

Thought that would be the case.
Regardless gonna get the chassis member made stronger etc for the towbar, then yea head off to the towbar place in town and have a chat to them

Thanks for everyones help
Sorry to be a anoyance

So that chassis member is basicly C section? Thats a bugger and a half!, you really need another peice of C section welded to the front of if it, with crush tubes for the bolts to go through.

Just my own view here, but this thread IS about rear recovery hooks(points).....

Yea sorry ill start my own thread next time :p only posted in here as i was gonna try get it built up strong enough for a rear recovery point etc

[Demonic]

So that chassis member is basicly C section? Thats a bugger and a half!, you really need another peice of C section welded to the front of if it, with crush tubes for the bolts to go through.

Just my own view here, but this thread IS about rear recovery hooks(points).....

Yea sorry ill start my own thread next time :p only posted in here as i was gonna try get it built up strong enough for a rear recovery point etc

Was meaning that this was a good place to discuss it, you are making it a recovery point aint you

What engineers are you planning on using for the chassis work? I have a few small bits i want to get done for future mods on my 4bie and it was suggested to get a REAL engineer to do it as some chassis are hardened steel and normal welding can ruin that.

[sprey]

So that chassis member is basicly C section? Thats a bugger and a half!, you really need another peice of C section welded to the front of if it, with crush tubes for the bolts to go through.

Just my own view here, but this thread IS about rear recovery hooks(points).....

Yea sorry ill start my own thread next time :p only posted in here as i was gonna try get it built up strong enough for a rear recovery point etc

Was meaning that this was a good place to discuss it, you are making it a recovery point aint you

What engineers are you planning on using for the chassis work? I have a few small bits i want to get done for future mods on my 4bie and it was suggested to get a REAL engineer to do it as some chassis are hardened steel and normal welding can ruin that.

Ahh i see :p
Yea i was gonna try get it built up to be a recovery point as well as towbar etc
But so far just seems likely that itl end up being a towbar and ill get the shop in town Geeves suggested to do some brackets that are strong enough for recovery hooks off the frame rail etc.

For this towbar its getting done up at belmont engineering, dad got his truck body built up there, so thats why ive gone up there.

Getting it fitted tomorrow, Its gonna be bolted on but the chassis member, as well as getting the chassis member reinforced.
Cant wait
I could of gone for a standard towbar that hangs underneath but i like the idea of this hidden type one. Plus i wont have it scraping on anything when offroad

[scruff123]

how do i get a picture to show??? cant figure it out haha