FULL EXPLANATION WITH ATTACHMENT
Yes that's right the MU has has a 15A fuse for the power windows in the fuse box you mention - by your right knee. Not sure how technical you are or what your background is so PM me if the rest of this get's you by more than the throat
I'll fill in the gaps if you wanna do it. I can even supply the board built if you want I guess. Here goes; The power for the windows is taken from the Ignition switch via a main fusible link, I forget which one. Therefore when the ignition is turned off; so are the power windows.
Best way is first to construct a delay board with a 15A relay on it with a 15A fuse on the cct board. Jaycar KC-5464 is a good kit to start with. Adjust the delay to suit you. I like about 1 minute. This board will have four connections to the MU (see attachment) - Permanent +12V power (from one of the battery fusible link or other convenient point), IGN, 0V or negative (goes to chassis electical point) and Relay contact (to window cct)
This delay board installed by;
(1) Mounting or anchoring the delay board in a plastic box in a convenient spot under the dash with leads long enough to connect - perhaps near the fuse panel is best.
(2) Connecting the 0V (Chassis) or negative connection to a suitable MU body connection point near the unit.
(3) Identifying a connection in the vehicle for getting permanent 12V from the battery through a fusible link and connecting it to the PERM 12V on the board. This lead may carry up to 15 amps when windows are operated!
(3) Locating the Power Window fuse in the panel, pulling it out (and discarding it - the fuse is now part of the delay board) and using a multimeter to check which connection in the panel is power supplied from the Ignition Switch (you'll see the voltage disappear when you turn the key off). This is connected to the IGN connection on the delay board by using a male spade crimp on the end of the IGN lead from the board and pushing it into the fuse socket in the fuse panel to the connection you just found.
(4) Connecting the board's Power Window Supply lead to the other fuse socket connection in the panel. This is the lead that now feeds the power to the power windows via the delay board.
NOTE 1 - My MU was supplying power to the windows WITHOUT going through the fuse. I pulled the fuse and the windows still worked!!!
Anyone else have this problem or was mine a cheap re-wire job?
NOTE 2 - Instead of plugging into the IGN on the fuse panel, I searched to find a voltage that was present for both ACC and IGN positions of the key. Ended up connecting it to the car radio power. This lead only draws a few milliamps so no problem when it's connected.
PM me if you want more. Perhaps you'd like the kit built up and posted to you with instructions. Not hard to do... Rik
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